Our original concept of the SC with a “basket weave” appearance at the histological level and a stratum compactum-stratum disjunctum at the electron microscope level has come under scrutiny over the last decade. For instance, Pfeiffer et al. (9) developed new high – pressure freezing followed by freeze substitution techniques for electron microscopy methods and […]

Paul J. Matts P&G Beauty, Rusham Park Technical Center, Egham, Surrey, U. K. Anthony V. Rawlings AVR Consulting Ltd., Northwich, Cheshire, U. K. INTRODUCTION In 1994 two key publications summarized the knowledge on the state of the art of stratum corneum biology and dry skin, namely: “Stratum corneum moisturization at the molecular level” (1) and […]

Adverse reactions in toners include transient contact irritation, contact allergy, and sensitization. Contact allergy is most often seen with more pharmacologically complex products, such as those containing multiple botanical extracts and penetration enhancers (27). Propylene glycol is often used as a humectant and sometimes as a solvent in toners. It is approved for use in […]

Until recently, the use of astringents and toners in dermatology was primarily limited to their anti-acne and astringent properties, although some also functioned as mild antiseptic agents suitable for mild or limited bacterial infections of the skin surface (24). Today soothing toners are increasingly being used by dermatologists and aestheticians for their anti-inflammatory and anti-irritant […]

Toner claims are substantiated by subjective and objective measurements. Many claims are substantiated by using both measurements. These tools are useful in the screening of ingredients and final product efficacy. Subjective measurements include consumer perception testing and panelists self-assessment on clinical trials. These tests include yes/no, like/dislike, agree/disagree, and point scales to rate consumer perception. […]

Toners on the market tout a plethora of skin benefit claims. It is these benefits that offer a prime opportunity for toner acceptance. The benefit most frequently associated with toners is a reduction of apparent pore size. Although no cosmetic product can alter the actual size of the pores, this claim is achieved because the […]

Skin Types Toners have two key formulating challenges—formulating for specific skin types and vehicle/ingredient stability and compatibility. Varying skin types, including dry, normal, oily, combination, sensitive, and acne-prone, require different and skin-type specific ingredients and vehicles. Free radical scavenging antioxidants are used regardless of skin type. Most toners are used within a skin care regimen. […]

Toners have historically contained plant-derived key ingredients. With recent controversies in the cosmetic industry concerning the use of animal-derived ingredients, the use of collagen and other animal-derived ingredients has diminished, and they are very rarely found in toners outside of Japan. A recent U. S. patent discloses the use of extensions, plant-derived hydroxyproline-rich glycoproteins that […]

Toners are typically clear to translucent aqueous or hydroalcoholic solutions. The choice of ingredients, function of these ingredients, and claims determine the product’s appearance and type of solution. A generic base formulation is shown in Table 1. Water is typically the major component and main vehicle or delivery system for active or other cosmetically important […]