Category: Cosmetic Formulation of Skin Care Products

Bilayer-Forming Lipid

From the current understanding of the compositional changes in dry skin five aspects of stratum corneum lipid biochemistry need to be corrected: The lowered levels of ceramides generally. The phytosphingosine-containing ceramide insufficiency. The ceramide one linoleate (CEOS) insufficiency. The lowered covalently bound ceramides. The precise chain length of the ceramide sphingoid bases and free fatty […]

THE “DRY SKIN CYCLE” MODEL: A NEW WAY TO DESCRIBE INDUCTION AND PROPAGATION OF THE XEROSIS

Classically, dry skin has been described in two ways—(1) as a condition that is simply either present or not or (2) as a linear progression of sequelae, resulting in the concomitant development of clinical tools such as linear visual grading scales, etc. While not refuting the validity of these, it is proposed that the induction […]

THE PATHOPHYSIOLOGY OF WINTER – AND SOAP-INDUCED DRY SKIN

The differences in SC water concentration profiles between normal and dry skin influence the enzymic reactions in the SC. In dry flaky skin conditions, corneodesmosomes are not Externally approximately months conditioning 78%RH and 24 C Figure 15 Time course of TEWL adaptation in humans working in an ultra-low humidity environment (1.5%RH). Source: From Ref. 67. […]

CORNEOCYTE ENVELOPE MATURATION AND THE ROLE OF TRANSGLUTAMINASES

The CE is an extremely stable and insoluble proteinaceous layered structure. The stability of the envelope is attributed to the degree of cross-linking of envelope proteins by either disulphide, glutamyl-lysine isodipeptide bonds, or glutamyl polyamine cross-linking of glutamine residues of several CE proteins (44). The enzymes, responsible for catalysing the gamma-glutamyl-epsilon-lysine isodipeptide bond formation, are […]

STRATUM CORNEUM CORNEODESMOSOMES AND CORNEODESMOLYSIS

The “brick and mortar” model of the SC has been known for many years. However, a more complete description of this model includes “corneodesmosomes.” Corneodesmosomes (26) are macromolecular glycoprotein complexes incorporated into the CE and consist of the cadherin family of transmembrane glycoproteins, desmoglein 1 (Dsg 1) and desmocollin 1 (Dsc 1). These glycoproteins span […]