New and Patented Ingredients/Applications

Toners have historically contained plant-derived key ingredients. With recent controversies in the cosmetic industry concerning the use of animal-derived ingredients, the use of collagen and other animal-derived ingredients has diminished, and they are very rarely found in toners outside of Japan. A recent U. S. patent discloses the use of extensions, plant-derived hydroxyproline-rich glycoproteins that can be incorporated into toners as substitutes for animal collagen (10). The use of Morinda Citrifolia or Noni from the Indian Mulberry plant in a toner is disclosed in a recent patent. Noni provides antioxidant benefits and is high in linoleic acid to nourish the skin (11). Sanguisorba, a plant native to Korea, China, and Japan, produces a root extract widely used in Asian cosmetics for its astringent effect. It is said to offer antimicrobial and anti-inflammatory effects as well, and it functions much like superoxide dismutase as an antioxidant (12). A recent patent discloses the preparation zinc glycyrrhizinate for use as an astringent in medical and cosmetic preparations (13). A mixture of butylene glycol and mushroom extract is used as an astringent additive for its skin tightening benefits (14). Pycogenol or pine bark extract and blueberry extract exhibit potent antioxidant and anti-inflammatory actions. They are useful as soothing and antioxidant agents in toners (15). Another recent patent (16) discloses the use of solvent extracts of plants including Spondias mombin, Maprounea guianesis, Waltheria indica, Gouania blanchetiana, Cordia schmoburgkii, Randia armata, and Hibiscus furcellatus to stimulate autosynthesis of reduced glutathione. A skin toner formulation patent (17) covers the use of butylene oxide-based ethers and propylene oxide-based ethers. It is purported to remove sebum from the skin without significant removal of moisture-retaining intercellular lipids.