1. Science and clinical studies: DHAE and the sulfated conjugate (DHAE-S) are abundantly produced human adrenal steroids which become minimized with age. These materials relate to skin aging through the regulation of and degradation of extra cellular protein. DHEA has been shown to increase procollagen synthesis and inhibit collagen degradation by inhibiting metalloproteinase (MMP-1) and […]
Category: Cosmetic Formulation of Skin Care Products
Cell Signaling: Copper Peptides
1. Science and clinical studies: Benefits of copper peptides for tissue regeneration were discovered in the 1970s. Copper peptides have been shown to be effective in healing wounds and skin lesions as well as some gastrointestinal conditions (36). A double-blind, placebo-controlled study demonstrated that topical application of a copper peptide cream accelerated the rate of […]
Cell Signaling: Amino Peptides
1. Science and clinical studies: Amino peptides are chemically linked to Palmitic Acid to enhance solubility allowing the peptide to become non-polar to cross lipids bilayers. Palmitoyl Pentapeptide-3, tested in a six-month clinical study, demonstrated improvement in the visual appearance of wrinkles by possibly stimulating fibroblast to rebuild the extra-cellular matrix and induce collagen synthesis. […]
Antioxidants: Idebenone (Hydroxydecyl Ubiquinone)
1. Science and clinical studies: Idebenone is a synthetic version of Co-Q10 with a molecular weight approximately 60% smaller. A multi-step in vitro process utilizing a variety of biochemical and cell-biological methods combined with in vivo studies was designed to compare the oxidative stress protective capacity of commonly used antioxidants. Summarizing and totaling the data […]
Antioxidants: Co-Q10 (Ubiquinone)
1. Science and clinical studies: Co-Q10 plays a vital role in mitochondrial enzymes of the oxidative phosphorylation pathway and is essential for the production of the high-energy phosphate, adenosine triphosphate (ATP), upon which all cellular functions depend. Numerous in vitro studies have been reported demonstrating the antioxidant efficacy of Co-Q10. However, limited clinical studies are […]
Antioxidants: Alpha-Lipoic Acid
1. Science and clinical studies: Topical application of 3% Alpha-Lipoic Acid has been shown to decrease UVB-induced erythema. These observations are thought to reflect the ingredient’s ability to function as an antioxidant blocking the transcription factor of nuclear factor-kappa B (NF-kappa B) (31). Clinical testing in 33 women with photodamage indicated that 12 weeks of […]
Growth Factors: Kinetin (Plant Growth Factor)
1. Science and clinical studies: Kinetin is a plant-derived nucleotide (growth factor) known to delay senescence (aging) in plants. Two one-year long clinical studies have been completed on Kinetin. Study results report that Kinetin can reverse the signs of photodamaged skin and improve the overall appearance of the skin, making it smoother and more even […]
Growth Factors: EGF/TGF
1. Science and clinical studies: No peer review clinical data was found on the effects associated with epidermal growth factor (EGF/TGF). However, several in vitro studies are obtainable. A bioassay for EGF reported by Carpenter and Zendegui was described as rapid, specific, and extremely sensitive (27). The bioassay detects as little as 25 pg of […]
Enzymes: SOD
1. Science and clinical studies: Superoxide Dismutase (SOD) is the most effective internal antioxidant found in humans. Superoxide radials are reduced to hydrogen peroxides by SOD and then further reduced by catalase to water. Data from the literature indicate a protective effect of SOD in topical application against UV-induced cutaneous damage (21). When an SOD […]