1. Science and clinical studies: DHAE and the sulfated conjugate (DHAE-S) are abundantly produced human adrenal steroids which become minimized with age. These materials relate to skin aging through the regulation of and degradation of extra cellular protein. DHEA has been shown to increase procollagen synthesis and inhibit collagen degradation by inhibiting metalloproteinase (MMP-1) and increase tissue inhibition of MMP (TIMP-1) in dermal fibroblasts. Inhibition of cellular damage caused by UV exposure is thought to be due to inhibition of AP-1 activity. DHAE was also found to induce growth factor-beta 1 and connective tissue growth factor mRNA in cultured fibroblast. In a four-week study, a 5% DHAE mixture was applied to buttock skin three times a week to volunteers and produced a significant increase in the expression of procollagen alpha 1 mRNA and protein in both young and old skin and significant reduced basal expression of MMP-1 mRNA and protein, but increased TIMP-1 protein in aged skin.
2. Key benefits: Increase collagen synthesis, decrease MMP-1, and increase TIMP-1 to enhance collagen production and minimize collagen breakdown.
3. Primary adverse effects: None known.
4. Practical applications in dermatology: May be useful in treating photodamaged skin.