Trying to separate out the information about microdermabrasion is like trying to decide if you should get a new car. It looks really good from the outside and seems to do everything, plus the salesperson makes it sound like a great investment—but what are the risks (cost, insurance, safety)? And beyond that, are there better, more effective options? Microdermabrasion is heralded on the Internet as a panacea that will solve skin problems from acne to wrinkles, but the issue is not that simple, the results are not that miraculous, and there are other options to consider.
What makes microdermabrasion enticing and so prevalent is that everyone can do it—a facialist, aesthetician, or even someone your doctor hired as a receptionist in his or her office. The machine itself is a relatively inexpensive investment for a salon, spa, or medical practice, and for the most part it is exceptionally simple to use, which helps explain its popularity.
In essence microdermabrasion is merely a superficial scrubbing of the skin. Using aluminum oxide crystals or other abrasive substances, the machine blows these particles against the skin via a tube. The same tube is then utilized to vacuum the material off the skin almost simultaneously. Despite its widespread use and the accolades microdermabrasion receives on Web sites, research has not kept pace with the testimonials. There are few published studies, and those that do exist were for the most part paid for by the companies selling microdermabrasion machines. In general, microdermabrasion studies have been conducted only in small groups of patients. Protocols, units, and settings have differed. There remains a major disparity between the popularity of microdermabrasion and the amount of comprehensive scientific data documenting the efficacy of the procedure. Plus there are almost no studies comparing microdermabrasion to other acne treatments.
All in all, there is no compelling reason to try microdermabrasion, just as there is also no compelling reason not to give it a try. The cost isn’t significant and the results will be evident after the first treatment, although multiple continuing treatments are required to maintain the benefits. However, as is true for chemical peels or laser and light devices used to treat acne, they aren’t cures and they don’t change the need for other topical treatments such as retinoids, exfoliants, or antibacterials.
(Sources: Seminars in Cutaneous Medicine and Surgery, September 2008, pages 212-220; American Journal of Clinical Dermatology, February 2005, pages 89-92, and July 2003, pages 467-471; and Dermatologic Surgery, September 2005, pages 1160-1165.)