Given the potential cost, compatibility, and skin feel benefits of increased sunscreen efficiency, there have been a number of technologies developed in the past 10-plus years to improve sunscreen products. For example, the use offilm formers, better wetting/spreading emollients, and shear-thinning rheology modifiers allow sunscreen products to spread more evenly and form a uniform film […]
Category: Cosmetic Formulation of Skin Care Products
Products
The goal of a sunless tanning product is to deliver DHA to the skin in a way that provides an even, natural looking tan color (64). To achieve this, there are three important considerations. First, the formulation must ensure that the DHA itself remains stable; otherwise, the product will develop an unpleasant brown color and […]
Ingredients
Most, if not all, commercial sunless tanning products utilize DHA to deliver a tanned appearance to the skin. Dihydroxyacetone is a three-carbon sugar that reacts nonenzymatically with amino acids in the outer layers of skin to produce brown/tan colored polymers (62). This color-forming reaction, i. e., the Maillard Reaction, is not immediate, and hence visible […]
Function
As stated, the function of self-tanning products is to temporarily impart color to the skin. Darkening of the skin occurs in response to solar or solar-simulated UV exposure which is the body’s natural response to UV exposure. Melanogenesis is a very complex process that is still not fully understood (54,55). It is the image of […]
SELF-TANNING PRODUCTS
The health and beauty of a “tan” has been ingrained in a generation of westerners (52). Unfortunately, this fashion image is diametrically opposed to the message being promoted by healthcare professions, namely to avoid sunlight or other artificial UV light sources, e. g., tanning salons, which is primarily responsible for the beautiful tan. Attempts have […]
Skin Compatibility
Along with fragrances and dyes, UV filters, particularly organic moieties, are known to elicit irritant responses in subjects predisposed to such skin reactions (48,49). It is generally desirable, therefore, to reduce to a minimum the concentration and number of UV filters present in a sunscreen product formulation to minimize risk of these types of incompatibilities. […]
Products
UV filters are the functional component of sunscreens while the formulation is the “art.” The general goal in formulating modern sunscreens is to design the best product that meets the desired UV efficacy targets of SPF, UVA/broad spectrum protection, and substantivity, i. e., water/wear resistance. Typically, the best product is the one that most effectively […]
Active Ingredients: UV Filters
In the U. S., there are 16 UV filters which are approved for use in sunscreen products and are listed in Table 2. Of these 16, there are nine which appear in most currently marketed sunscreen products in the U. S. (41). There is much overlap in the use of such ingredients between U. S. […]
SUNSCREENS
Unquestionably, the safety and efficacy of sunscreen products is of paramount importance. To this end, the function, UV filters, and product design will be discussed. Function As stated, the function of sunscreen products is to absorb/scatter/reflect solar UV, thereby reducing the dose of such harmful radiation to the skin. This is accomplished through the use […]