There are many terms and ingredients associated with skincare products. What follows is only a basic list. While there are no miracles when it comes to the skin, a clear understanding of how ingredients function will help you select the right skincare products.
alpha hydroxy acids (ahas) are naturally occurring acids found in fruits and milk, used topically to
reduce the appearance of fine lines. AHAs help speed up the skin’s natural exfoliation process, helping it shed dead skin cells. They can improve the texture of skin, unclog pores, and help prevent breakouts. Glycolic acid is one of the commonly used AHAs. Do not use products containing salicylic acid (a beta hydroxy acid), which is too harsh for general exfoliation, as they are intended for use only on problem skin areas.
anti-aging: The best anti-aging formula is a healthy lifestyle. Nothing will stop the clock. Poor diet, excessive drinking, smoking, lack of exercise, and sunburn all accelerate the effects of aging on the skin.
antioxidants help protect the skin from damage caused by free radicals, molecules with an unpaired electron. They cause oxidation that can damage cellular material. Vitamins A, C, and E, beta – carotene, green tea, and grape seed extract are all highly effective antioxidants.
balms are super-rich moisturizers that target dry patches of skin on face, hands, feet, and body. Look for ingredients such as avocado extract or shea butter. For a subtle glow, I warm some in my hands and pat on the cheeks after applying makeup.
base is a term that generally refers to a product applied under foundation to smooth and protect the skin. Bases often contain a mix of vitamins, antioxidants, and anti-aging ingredients. Previous generations referred to foundation color as base.
brightener: Makeup products sometimes contain light-diffusing particles and/or ingredients that inhibit oxidation. Both of these are referred to as brighteners.
collagen is a fibrous protein found in skin. When collagen levels in the skin are high, the skin appears firm. Levels of collagen decline as we age. As the support provided by the collagen is reduced, wrinkles begin to form. Injections temporarily replace lost collagen. The topical application of peptides may have a similar effect.
emollients (squalane, avocado oil, wheat germ oil, glycerin, lanolin, petroleum, shea butter, and others) hold moisture in the skin and make the skin soft and supple.
exfoliators are designed to help slough off dead skin cells. Look for scrubs designed for the face.
fixers are sprays that set makeup. Makeup is also typically set with powders.
green tea extract (Camellia sinensis) is a powerful antioxidant found in many anti-aging products that may slow down photo aging.
humectants (glycerin, algae extract, sodium hyaluronate, urea, lactic acid, panthenol and others) absorb water from the air and help the skin retain moisture.
hyaluronic acid (sodium hyaluronate) is a fluid that surrounds the joints and is found in skin tissue. Aging slows the production of this acid, so it is often supplemented as an anti-aging treatment. It is used as filler for wrinkles (injection) and can be applied topically or taken in pill form. It is often added to moisturizer and works to hydrate skin.
oxidants are unstable molecules caused by pollution, smoke, ultraviolet light, toxins, and other environmental factors. Also known as free radicals, they attack and damage the skin, leading to premature aging.
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peptides are two or more amino acids bonded together, forming a linear molecule. The molecules can transfer biologically active agents (green tea, vitamin E, copper) to cells, renewing them. Algae peptides are used in some firming formulations. Copper peptides have been used for years to aid in wound healing. Labels might indicate that a product contains pentapeptides (five peptides) or polypeptides (many peptides).
photo aging is sun damage.
retinoids (Retin-A, retinal, Renova) are powerful vitamin A derivatives used to fight acne and help build collagen to reverse visible signs of aging. The drug is effective in reducing fine lines around the eyes and mouth, not deep wrinkles. Inflammation and peeling are common side effects from use, which can last from two weeks to months. Because the drug makes skin more sensitive to the sun, use of a sunscreen is essential. Pregnant women and those planning a pregnancy should avoid this drug, since it is not known how much Retin-A is absorbed through the skin, and high doses of vitamin A can cause birth defects. Natural sources of retinoids include yams, tomatoes, fish-liver oils, melon, squash, and leafy green vegetables.
serums are concentrated, corrective skin treatments that are packed with highly effective active ingredients that address specific skin concerns like dullness and uneven skin tone. Ingredients commonly found in serums include vitamin C, green tea extract, and white birch extract. For best results, serums should be applied after cleansing, before moisturizer.
spf (sun protection factor) measures the degree of protection a product provides against the sun’s UVB rays. The formula used divides the minutes it takes to burn wearing a thick application of the product by the minutes the same person takes to burn without any sunscreen. There is no current rating system for UVA protection.
squalene (natural, unsaturated) is derived from shark-liver oil. It is very emollient and has some germicidal benefits.
tyrosinase inhibitors (kojic acid, hydroquinone)all prevent browning or age spots on the skin. Licorice (glycyrrhiza glabrd) has been used for centuries to lighten and brighten skin.
vitamin B3 (niacinamide) is a water soluble vitamin found in yeast, eggs, liver, and vegetables that helps increase the amount of fatty acids in the skin, promoting exfoliation and firmness.
vitamin c (ascorbic acid) is an antioxidant that can reduce the appearance of hyperpigmentation and create a more even skin tone. It protects the skin from atmospheric pollution and from ultraviolet light. Vitamin C also helps convert inactivated vitamin E back to the active, antioxidant form of vitamin E. Vitamin C is involved in the formation of elastin and plays a role in converting proline, an amino acid, into collagen. Vitamin C increases collagen manufacture, reducing the appearance of wrinkles. The production of melanin is an oxidative process that causes pigmentation. As an antioxidant, vitamin C counteracts the oxidative process. High doses of vitamin C reduce the pigmentation of scars and make them less noticeable. Vitamin C is found in fresh fruits and vegetables.
vitamin e (tocopherol) provides antioxidant protection. All the cells in the body contain fatty acids that need protection against oxidation, which causes disease and symptoms of aging. Vitamin E protects the fatty acids (oils) against oxidation and rancidity. Vitamin E has been shown to act as a mild sunscreen, with a sun protection factor (SPF) of 3.
vitamin к helps to reduce ruddiness and promotes faster healing of bruising, swelling, and skin irritation.
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