Brow shape conveys a number of emotions and expressions, and is a focal point on the face (Chapter 1: Shapes). We use brows to draw attention to the eyes. Shaping and
Find the brow shape by taking the handle of a makeup brush and laying the handle gently on the face vertically. Starting from the inner corner of the eye at the nose, point straight up toward the brow. The general rule is to start the brow at the inner corners of the eye (or one eye length
between each eye). Next, with the brush handle vertical, gently lay the handle on the outside of the iris with the handle going up to the brow. This is your highest point in the arch, or where the natural arch should be, and sometime is not. Approximately a 1/2 inch from the arch is where the brow should end. For the beginning brow artist, take a pencil and lightly mark any area of the brow that you feel needs shaping.
Start with the inside corner of the brow and use light, short feather strokes in an upward or 45-degree angle (depending on how the hair grows). Move along the brow in this way, filling and shaping where needed. Use different colors. Remember not to fill in too much, just where needed. If you are using the brow pencil and brow powder technique, add brow powder in a lighter shade, and go over or fill in areas that are too harsh from the pencil. You can use brow pencil alone or brow powders alone, depending on your hand and eye.
Brow sealers can be used to tame unruly brows. Apply after you have shaped the brow. Sealers can darken the brows, so adjust your work accordingly. Sealers can also start to flake over time, so check your brows!
Brows also need trimming (just like the hair on the head). Makeup Artists trim brows on a regular basis, particularly on men. Have a small trimmer on hand (Panasonic), small round-tipped scissors, and a small-toothed comb (a mustache comb or brow comb works). Keep everything clean, sanitary, and running well. Follow the manufacturer’s directions for the care and cleaning of the trimmer. Comb the brow hair upward, with your scissors at an angle, trimming any hair
that is too long. Work a little at a time until you have the desired results. It is better to make several passes during trimming than to cut too much in one pass.
PRO TIP
Facial-hair lighteners are used to take naturally dark brows and lighten them. This process is good for continuity and looks. Lightening is a simple process, but not something you would do on the same day as shooting. This should be done several days before, or at least the day before, shooting. Always follow the manufacturer’s directions on how to use a product.
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Blush the cheeks and the lips with colors that work with the skin tone, costume, and situations. Placement depends on the individual features, character portrayal, and current trends. Experiment with different
PRO TIP
I very much depend upon the Estee Lauder Smoothing Creme Concealer, using it under the foundation of every women’s makeup that I do, and some men’s. It not only works beautifully on dark circles and blemishes, but also as a successful eyebrow cover when only a small portion of the brow needs to be blocked.
—Steven Horak
colors and placement on your models to see the effects of color, placement, and shapes on the cheeks and lips. Refer to Chapter 1: Shapes.