Generally, you should match the exact color of the brows rather than your hair color or a color you think would look better than what already exists. You don’t want to see a difference between the eyebrow hairs and the shadow or gel used to fill them in. However, if you have pale eyebrows and want to darken the brow color, use a soft shade of tan or brown that is as close to your brows’ natural color as possible. If you have red hair and brown eyebrows, using a red pencil or red-brown powder will look unnatural; just stick with brown. If you have blonde eyebrows, you could use a slightly darker blonde or taupe color on your brows to make them visible. For those with well-shaped, naturally full brows, a clear brow gel (Cover Girl and Jane have good ones) is a great option for lightly grooming the brows without adding any color. You can also spritz some hairspray on an old toothbrush and comb through your brows, or add a dab of non-sticky styling gel to keep unruly brow hairs in place.
What if you don’t have any hair at all where the eyebrows are supposed to be? This is the only circumstance that requires applying a brow color that matches the hair on your head. It will look the most natural. Use the wedge brush and powder to follow the bone above the eye, applying to whatever hair is there. Usually there’s enough shape to create a natural, shaded impression of a brow. Use a light touch, with short, quick motions, and avoid the temptation to exaggerate the shape by arching it severely or extending it into the temple area. Downplay the fact that there is no hair; it’s better not to overexaggerate the area with a strong, eye-catching line. Also, don’t place a highlighter or light-colored eyeshadow under the brow to further emphasize the brow. Putting something dark next to something light makes it look even more prominent. Once the brows are softly accented (or left alone), play up your lips or cheeks instead so that these will become the focus rather than your absent or too-sparse eyebrows.
eyebrow mistakes to avoid
1. Do not over-tweeze, and never tweeze above the brow, only underneath. Tweezing above the brow can ruin its natural shape.
2. Do not overstate the shape of the brow; minimal brow alteration is best.
3. Do not pluck brows into a thin line thinking it will make your eyes look larger. It will only look strange, contrived, or even sinister. It can also give the face a surprised look, and none of this is attractive or natural—or easy to correct once the damage is done.
4. Do not use eyebrow pencil or eyeliner pencil to fill in your eyebrows unless you are adept at making it look very soft and shaded.
5. Do not apply eyebrow powders that are a different color than your own eyebrows; it is best to always match your existing brow color.
6. Do not apply brow color that is obvious or has a drawn-on look.
7. Be careful of brow colors that look red on the skin, which can make the eyebrow look fake and the skin look irritated. If you’re in doubt when choosing between brow shades, go with the more muted option.