Manufactured by Bristol-Meyers Squibb, Vaniqa ($37.50 for 1.05 ounces) is FDA – approved as a prescription-only topical cream for reducing and inhibiting the growth of unwanted facial hair (it has not been studied for its effect on hair on other parts of the body). On the surface, Vaniqa might sound like a depilatory (those nonprescription, drugstore products that topically dissolve hair away), but Vaniqa’s effect on hair and skin is unrelated to the way a depilatory works.
The active drug in Vaniqa is eflornithine hydrochloride, which has been used as an oral medication for certain cancers and to treat African Sleeping Sickness. Many disconcerting side effects are associated with this drug when it is taken orally, ranging from anemia to diarrhea, vomiting, and hair loss. The notion that topical application of eflornithine hydrochloride could also affect hair loss probably stems from its hair-loss side effect when taken orally. However, the product information insert for the medication states that, when applied topically, eflornithine hydrochloride, “is not known to be metabolized and is primarily excreted unchanged in the urine with no adverse systemic side effects.”
The information insert for Vaniqa explains that eflornithine hydrochloride affects the skin because it “interferes with an enzyme found in the hair follicle of the skin needed for
hair growth. This results in slower hair growth____ [However] Vaniqa does not permanently
remove hair or ‘cure’ unwanted facial hair…. Your treatment program should include continuation of any hair removal technique you are currently using.. [Further] Improvement in the condition occurs gradually. Don’t be discouraged if you see no immediate improvement. Improvement may be seen as early as 4 to 8 weeks of treatment… [and] may take longer in some individuals. If no improvement is seen after 6 months of use, discontinue use. Clinical studies show that in about 8 weeks after stopping treatment with Vaniqa, the hair will return to the same condition as before beginning treatment.”
There are warnings that accompany this cream and there is still research to be done. Note that the insert warns, “You should not use Vaniqa if you are less than 12 years of age..” Plus, there are animal studies that showed definite fetal problems. That means pregnant women should not use this drug, and lactating women probably should not either, though there is no research about that risk. Also, “Vaniqa may cause temporary redness, stinging, burning, tingling or rash on areas of the skin where it is applied. Folliculitis (hair bumps) may also occur,” as well as acne.
So, should you consider Vaniqa? Well, that depends on how you look at the statistics, because clearly for some women it can work very well to reduce the amount of facial hair while others will be disappointed. It seems to work even better in conjunction with laser hair removal. At the very least, it is certainly an option when experimenting with serious hair – growth problems. (Sources: European Journal of Dermatology, January-February 2008, pages 65-70; and Journal of the American Academy of Dermatology, July 2007, pages 54-59.)