Cosmetics counters carry a mind-boggling assortment of foundations these days, including oil-free and matte foundations, water-based foundations, pressed-powder foundations, cream-to-powder foundations, liquid-to-powder foundations, stick foundations, so-called self-adjusting foundations, and foundations that have shine. Given this range of options, narrowing down your choices can be tricky.
Note: Many of the following foundation types have effective sunscreen protection with an SPF 15 or greater and the UVA-protecting ingredients of avobenzone, titanium dioxide, or zinc oxide (as of this writing, I am not aware of any foundations that contain Mexoryl SX or Tinosorb as active ingredients). That means you can rely on these for sun protection if they are applied liberally and evenly all over the face. If you prefer to wear a sheer, thin layer of foundation or don’t want to wear foundation all over your face, then a moisturizer with sunscreen must be worn underneath. To ensure your foundation with sunscreen is protecting you all day, consider setting your makeup or touching up your makeup during the day with a pressed powder that contains sunscreen.
Oil-free and matte liquid foundations: Most of these contain oils (even though the names don’t sound as though they do) or ingredients that act or feel like oils, such as silicones. These oils and oil-like ingredients are not necessarily bad for any skin type, but their presence demonstrates that the term “oil-free” is another cosmetics industry contrivance that won’t necessarily help you find the best product for your skin type. Keep in mind that what most of these foundations have in common when they are well formulated is that they set to a matte finish, with no shine or dewy appearance whatsoever. On the skin, “oil-free” matte foundations look like a traditional liquid foundation, although they are often thicker in appearance and have no shine.
Examples: Clinique Stay-True Makeup Oil-Free Formula, Almay Nearly Naked Liquid Makeup SPF 15
Application: See the section “Blending Foundation” that follows.
Pros: These foundations are the best choice for women who want balanced coverage with no shine at all, and who like a smooth, matte look. They last much longer on oily skin or oily areas than most other foundations, which for some women is a very desirable, if not essential, effect.
Cons: There aren’t many disadvantages to using this kind of foundation. Some of them can make the skin look or feel dry and flaky, but this is usually true only for those that contain a high amount of talc or other absorbent ingredients.
Water-based and standard liquid foundations: Water-based does not mean oil-free, even if the label says so; what it does generally mean is that the first ingredient is water and the second or third ingredient is some kind of oil or emollient slip agent. These foundations look like a somewhat thick liquid that pours slowly but easily out of the bottle. They are perfect for women with normal to dry skin, and the number of foundations fitting this description and performance is extensive.
Examples: Laura Mercier Moisturizing Foundation, M. A.C. Select SPF 15 Moistureblend
Application: See the section “Blending Foundation” that follows.
Pros: Most water-based foundations are best for those with normal to dry skin. They are perfect for these skin types to wear without a moisturizer, or they can be worn with a moisturizer or a moisturizer that contains an SPF. The oil or emollient part of these foundations gives them good movement, which makes blending a pleasure and allows blushes and eyeshadows to blend on effortlessly and evenly over the face. Mistakes are easily buffed away with the sponge.
Cons: If you have oily or combination skin, this is not the foundation type for you. Even the little bit of oil or emollient in a water-based foundation will show as shine almost immediately if you have oily skin. Those who do not have oily skin but have a paranoia about any shine on the face will not like the effects of a water-based foundation either; and for those with breakout-prone skin, the small amount of oil or emollients in this cosmetic may make you nervous. For the most part, I personally don’t believe there are any disadvantages to using water-based foundations and I recommend them wholeheartedly. Water-based foundation is also a great option for women of color. The slight amount of emollient these contain helps create a nice glow on the skin, preventing darker skin tones from appearing dull or ashen. That same glow is also most attractive for women with dry skin.
If you are concerned about the small amount of shine that water-based foundations leave behind on the skin, try adding a light dusting of loose powder. After you’ve blended the foundation in place, you can apply the powder all over the face to reduce the shine.
Pressed-powder foundations: These foundations come in a compact and appear and perform much like any pressed powder, which is what they really are, only with a bit more coverage and ability to stay put. Almost all of them have a superior creamy, silky feel, but when applied to the skin they blend on as easily and lightly as any pressed powder.
Examples: Laura Mercier Foundation Powder, Clinique Almost Powder Makeup SPF 15
Application: You can apply these foundations, either with a sponge or a brush, all over the face, including the eyelids. This is the easiest way to get a smooth, light, and fast application. You might have to worry about a smooth application if you have dry skin, but these powder-based foundations go on evenly for other skin types, providing extremely sheer to medium coverage. For more specifics about blending techniques, see the section “Blending Foundation” that follows.
Pros: Powder foundations are great for women with normal to oily or combination skin. They blend on easily and quickly, last all day, generally don’t change color, and feel exceptionally light on the skin. They are best for those who want a minimal feel and appearance from their foundation. They also work very well over sunscreens, and can help reduce the shine some sunscreen ingredients (even those in a matte base) leave on the skin. Pressed-powder foundations also work well as a late-day touch-up over liquid foundation.
Cons: Women who have dry skin should not wear powder foundation. This is also not a good option if you have flaky skin, regardless of your skin type. The powder content makes this type of foundation too drying for someone with dry skin, and the way it goes on can make the skin look more dry and flaky. Also, women with very oily skin might want to be cautious, because powder-based foundations can get a thickened, pooled appearance as oil resurfaces on the face during the day.
Cream-to-powder foundations: These foundations are an interesting cross between a pressed powder and a creamy liquid foundation. They come in a compact and have a very creamy, sometimes greasy appearance. When you blend them on, the creamy part disappears and you are left with a slightly matte, powdery finish. Cream-to-powder foundations provide much better coverage than pressed-powder-based foundations.
Examples: Clarins Perfectly Real Compact Makeup, Estee Lauder Resilience Lift Extreme Ultra Firming Creme Compact Makeup SPF 15
Application: Cream-to-powder foundations are best applied with a sponge. Some women have success using a brush, but I think this is a difficult, messy technique. See the section “Blending Foundation” that follows.
Pros: Cream-to-powder foundations blend on quickly and easily and provide a semi-matte, soft, medium coverage. They work great for someone with normal to slightly dry or slightly combination skin. The consistency doesn’t require powdering after you apply it. If you wish to use powder, make sure you apply it as lightly as possible to avoid a caked, heavy look.
Cons: Cream-to-powder foundations can blend on slightly thick, providing a made-up look rather than a sheer, natural appearance. They don’t work well for someone with oily skin because the cream components can be too creamy, making skin look more oily, and they don’t work well for dry skin because the powder part can be too powdery looking and cause more dryness.
Liquid-to-powder foundations: These liquidy powders with a gel-like wet feel apply easily and dry to a satiny-smooth, sheer, slightly matte finish. They typically contain water as the first ingredient, along with a slip agent such as glycerin. In contrast to cream-to-powder foundations, liquid-to-powder foundations feel significantly lighter on the skin. They also tend to last longer over combination or oily skins because the creamy, waxy ingredients are either decreased or altogether absent.
Examples: Vincent Longo Water Canvas Foundation, Cover Girl Aqua Smooth Makeup SPF 15
Application: Liquid-to-powder foundations are best applied with a sponge. Some women have success using a brush, but I think this is a difficult, messy technique. See the section “Blending Foundation” that follows.
Pros: Liquid-to-powder foundations blend on quickly and relatively easily and provide a semi-matte to matte finish with sheer to medium coverage. They work great for someone with normal to oily or slightly combination skin. The consistency means that it doesn’t require powdering after you apply it. If you wish to use powder, make sure you apply it as lightly as possible to avoid a caked, heavy look.
Cons: Liquid-to-powder foundations dry quickly and can, therefore, blend on choppy, making application tricky. This type of foundation does not work very well over dry skin because the water portion tends to cling to dry areas, leaving a powder finish that is not easily moved. If you have dry skin and want to try this type of foundation, use an emollient moisturizer or sunscreen beforehand. The product itself must be kept tightly closed between uses because the water component will evaporate if left exposed to air for long periods. Some of the compact liquid-to-powder makeups can chip or break apart if you are not careful while swiping your sponge over the makeup.
Stick foundations: These foundations are essentially cream-to-powder foundations in stick form, and the application, pros, and cons mentioned in that section are the same. The main difference between stick and cream-to-powder foundations is the variety of coverage available from sticks. Whereas cream-to-powder makeups typically provide medium coverage, stick foundations come in formulas that range from full to sheer coverage with either matte to creamy texture. Some stick foundations also feature effective sunscreens, making them a great all-in-one option. In addition, they can do double duty as a concealer.
Examples: Stila Perfecting Foundation, Shiseido Stick Foundation SPF 15
Application: These can be swiped onto the skin right from the stick and then blended with a sponge, fingers, or a foundation brush.
Pros and Cons: Refer to the section for cream-to-powder foundations.
Self-adjusting foundations: These foundations supposedly can absorb oil, stop oil production, and also prevent moisture loss. I’ve yet to see one perform as promised, though it would be great if someone came up with one that could! Do not rely on these foundations to perform as claimed, but they’re often a good choice for combination skin due to their lighter texture and soft matte finish.
Custom-blended foundations: If a foundation is blended for you and you only, will that get you the best shade? This style of selling makeup is very enticing. The customer-service interaction is impressive. Your foundation is supposedly mixed and matched for your exact skin color and needs. The premise is that there are only so many ready-made shades and you might be better off having one custom-blended. Unfortunately, the idea sounds better than the reality. The major problem with custom-blended cosmetics is that the success of the match depends on the expertise of the salesperson—and there are huge variations in skill.
As tempting as custom-blended foundations sound, the formulations are not necessarily superior to (or sometimes even as good as) standard products. The foundation may be too greasy or too dry and it might turn to rose or peach as you wear it. With so many off-the – shelf foundation products available, in many excellent colors, custom blending turns out to be more an expensive gimmick than anything else.
When should you try a custom-blended product, particularly foundation? When you have tested many standard foundations and are still frustrated with the color of your foundation.