What kind of eyeliner should you use? Eye pencils are a quick, convenient option, but they do have problems; many tend to smear or fade, and unless you are using a twist-up pencil they are tricky to keep sharpened.
For years my favorite option for applying a line was to use a tiny eyeliner brush with an appropriate color of traditional eyeshadow powder. Nowadays, I am very fond of the long-wearing gel eyeliners offered by many cosmetics lines, including mine. If you opt to use powder, I recommend using a dark-toned, matte eyeshadow color (almost any medium to deep eyeshadow color can work) and a tiny brush. I often apply the eyeshadow by wetting the brush and using it as “liquid” liner. The application is more controlled, but once it dries you have the soft look and the staying power of a powder without the hard edge that liquid eyeliners can create. A tiny, thin eyeliner brush allows absolute control over the thickness of the line around the eye.
Pencil eyeliners can often work well if you follow these basic rules:
• Self-sharpening pencils are by far the product of choice. Sharpening regular eye pencils is difficult, and keeping the point sharp without chewing up the pencil can be tricky.
• Remember that not all automatic pencils have a wind-down feature. That means if you wind the tip of the pencil up too high, it cannot be retracted and will likely break off.
• It is easier to apply pencil along the lower lashes than along the upper lid because the eyeshadows on the lid are harder for the pencil to stick to. You may want to consider using a greasy pencil for the lid and a firmer, less greasy pencil for the lower lashes. (If a pencil flattens when you press it, it will blend on more easily—but also will tend to smear more easily.)
• Warm the pencil between your fingers to apply a softer line of color; just remember this is not a surefire way to get a smooth application.
• To get a more precise line, if you have the time, leave the pencil in the freezer for a minute or two.
• Apply matching or similar powder eyeshadow over pencil to get the best of both worlds.
Liquid eyeliner, in general, is the most dramatic option, and when applied correctly
(meaning a well-controlled, even line with no patches of skin showing through) it can definitely have an impact! However, getting the application right is more than half the battle with liquid liners. Even those who have well-tapered and firm but flexible brushes can find it difficult to control and apply evenly to both eyes. Yet if you’re intent on trying a liquid liner, the easiest (and I use this term loosely) way to apply it is after your eyeshadow design is done and before mascara. Do not blink excessively or touch your eye until you’re sure the liner has dried. For best results, liquid liner should be used only on the upper lash-line. Powder eyeliner is a softer choice for the lower lash-line, and you will lose none of the oomph that comes with well-applied liquid liner. Make sure the liners meet at the outer corner of the eye.
Powder eyeliner can be applied with almost any eyeshadow you have, but by far the best products for this are those from Bobbi Brown, L’Oreal, M. A.C., Trish McEvoy, and Shu Uemura. Choose a dark shade of eyeshadow. Always line the eyes last—after all the other eyeshadows have been applied. Use a tiny, thin, slightly stiff brush. Whether you use your powder wet or dry (both are fine, dry is softer, wet is more dramatic), stroke the brush through the color, keeping the bristles together. Do not dab or rub the brush into the color. Move the brush across the eyeshadow in the direction of the bristles, making sure the form of the brush is not destroyed. Tap the excess color from the brush, then apply the color to the eyelid next to the lashes and under the eye near the lower lashes.
Gel eyeliner is similar to liquid liners in almost every respect, except that it is easier to apply and control—and the best ones offer the longest, most foolproof wear of any type of eyeliner. I was resistant to trying this type of eyeliner, but once I did it quickly became a favorite. Gel eyeliners are the only way to go if you have oily eyelids or have had difficulty getting various eye pencils or powders to last and remain neatly applied. Several major lines offer gel eyeliners, including L’Oreal, Bobbi Brown, Stila, M. A.C., and Paula’s Choice.
Cake eyeliner has been around for years and most of us have either seen or tried it at some point. Compared to a well-pigmented powder eyeshadow or even a standard liquid liner, cake eyeliner is more of an antiquated choice that has no distinct advantages over other types of eyeliners. If you’re a devoted user of cake liner and like the results, stick with it. Otherwise, I encourage you to try other types of liner before considering this one to achieve a softer look with more options for neutral color choices.