The Internet is rife with information about microdermabrasion. Some of it is backed by research, but a lot of it is sheer nonsense. Some of the research is actually meaningless, especially if it was done using a small group of women, wasn’t done double – or single-blind, or if there was no histological evaluation. But this is how a process that is little more than a deep topical scrub has ended up being showcased as a solution to everything from wrinkles to acne, or being just as effective as laser resurfacing, other light devices, or chemical peels. That isn’t the case, and there is no research supporting these distortions.
Microdermabrasion machines are FDA-approved Class I medical devices, which means they do not require any studies or proof that they are beneficial in any way. All it means is that the machine can be used; for example, Band-Aids are Class I medical devices. Microdermabrasion involves propelling a scrublike substance, most typically aluminum oxide crystals, onto the face at various speeds, then vacuuming off the debris using a specialized tube attached to the machine. The vacuum suction can be operated at various pressures, giving the operator the ability to control both the particle speed and suction at the skin surface. To prevent any damage to the eye area it is important that eye protection be used.
If you are interested in getting a facial, then microdermabrasion is one of the more compelling treatments to consider. It can play a role in helping skin look and feel better by removing a microscopically thin layer of surface skin. But it is not a miracle and it is pricey. A series of treatments on a regular basis is recommended, at rates that can range from $200 to $300 a session, so if you get it done once a month or every other month it adds up. And the results are not permanent; the smooth feeling most people experience afterward is short-lived, so then you have to do it again and again. You get the picture.
What results can you expect? That’s a question that is hard to answer. Proponents and some research indicate a smoother appearance and feel to skin, temporary reduction in acne lesions, a general feel and look of healthier skin, and an overall improvement in dry skin. One positive side effect is that moisturizers can absorb better into skin, which can definitely improve skin texture and reduce water loss. Microdermabrasion is being evaluated for a potential role in helping topical medications absorb better. Whether microdermabrasion helps build collagen is unclear, but it does not change cell function or development.
Be aware there is no research showing that microdermabrasion gives better results than other salon treatments such as chemical peels, or medical treatments such as Thermage or IPL (Intense Pulsed Light). Most studies on the topic echo the same sentiment, which is that more research is needed to determine what benefit, aside from a glowing, smooth appearance, is gained from microdermabrasion.
Microdermabrasion should not be performed if you have any of the following problems: rosacea, surfaced capillaries, severe acne, warts, open wounds, skin rashes, psoriasis, or diabetes.
(Sources: Journal of Cosmetic Laser Therapy, December 2008, pages 187-192; Natural Biotechnology, November 2008, pages 1261-1268; Seminars in Cutaneous Medicine and Surgery, September 2008, pages 212-220; Journal of Dermatologic Treatment, August 2008, pages 1-6; and Dermatologic Surgery, June 2006, pages 809-814.)