Fake nails—Real problems

The long and short of artificial nails is that there are risks associated with having them applied. I won’t get into the aesthetic issues here, though it is a mystery to me why women can consider this a valid expenditure of their hard-earned money or believe that anyone thinks these are real—that’s another story altogether. What is of more concern is the number of women every year who see a physician because of nail-related disorders that are directly related to the application of artificial nails. The most typical problems are horizontal nail grooves that develop close to the cuticle. This abnormality, according to an article by Dr. Zoe Draelos in the January 1998 issue of Cosmetic Dermatology, is seen in chemotherapy patients and women who wear artificial nails. When it’s unrelated to chemotherapy, this nail damage is probably a result of the drill used by the manicurist to buff out the acrylic nail, or to rough up the real nail to allow better adhesion of the fake nail. It is far less damaging to use an emery board to file the nail, but salons are using the drill procedure to speed up an otherwise time-consuming process.

The thinning of the nail plate is another problem that occurs, especially when the acrylic nails are finally removed. To address this, it is quite typical for the manicurist to recom­mend oils, vitamins, or other treatments ranging from calcium to oxygen infusions, none of which will improve the appearance of the nail. The weakened, fragile part of the nail is long dead, and there is nothing that can be done to change the damage that took place when the artificial nail was applied and then repeatedly damaged with each reapplication. The only option is time, enough of it to grow out the damage, assuming that you are not doing anything else to your nails to cause more damage to the nail or cuticle.

Inflammation of the nail area is almost always a direct result of the chemicals used to apply artificial nails, but it can also be an allergic reaction to the acrylic material. However, if the inflammation persists or swells, it is essential to use a topical disinfectant such as Bacitracin. If the swelling continues or becomes more painful, it is imperative to see a physician who can treat the possible infection.

Another typical and more painful problem is something called onycholysis, which is the separation or loosening of a fingernail or toenail from its nail bed. What makes acrylic nails often more amazing than your own nails is, according to Dr. Draelos, “that the adhesion between the artificial nail and the natural plate is stronger than the adhesion between the natural nail plate and the nail bed.” If you twist your nail, it is far easier to have your own nail become detached from your skin than it is for the artificial nail to pop off your natural nail. This means you need to avoid misuse (and not think the artificial nail can withstand any amount of pressure). It is imperative to pay attention to any loosening of your own nail and to be careful how you use the artificial nail. Because the artificial nail may be stronger than your own, it can put your real nail at risk.

One other possible problem for fake-nail wearers is infection. If you see a yellow or green discoloration, you can attempt to treat it yourself with Bacitracin. But if this doesn’t produce any improvement then it is essential you contact your physician.

Updated: October 4, 2015 — 2:47 am