The primary purpose of concealers is to offset the natural shadows that occur under the eyes, and, in more elaborate makeup applications, to highlight certain areas of the face such as the center of the nose, forehead, top of the cheekbones, or center of the chin. Principally, the under-eye area needs concealer most because the eye is set back in its socket, which lies in a shadow created by the surrounding bone structure. In addition, the skin around the eye tends to be thinner than the skin on the rest of the face, so pigment discolorations and surface veins show through easily, making the under-eye area look dark and dull. The first thing you need, then, is a lightweight, flesh-tone concealer that is a shade or two lighter than your foundation.
However, if you don’t have dark circles under the eye area, you don’t need a concealer. The same is true if your foundation is opaque enough to even out the skin tone under the eyes: you don’t need an extra product for that area.
The logic behind using a lighter flesh-tone color is the same basic rule you learned in Art 101: When you need to make paint a lighter color, you add a lighter color than you started with. Any other color, or the same color, or a darker color would defeat the purpose. Blue, yellow, or shades that are the same as your foundation color will not make the under-eye area lighter. Standard shades can cover discolorations, which is fine, but applying a lighter shade is the only way to correct the darkness caused by shadows. Also, a slightly lighter under-eye area can make the face look brighter and more awake. Foundation may be all you need to even out minimal discolorations under the eye, cheeks, and nose, or to hide minor facial discolorations.
When you shop for an effective concealer, it is critical that the concealer be the same basic, natural skin tone as your foundation, only one or two shades lighter. That way you can be assured that the foundation and concealer will blend together under the eye. If you choose a concealer that is a very different color than your foundation, you will simply end up with a third color where they overlap and intersect.
The only time you wouldn’t use a lighter concealer is when the area under the eye is naturally lighter or the same color as the rest of the face. In that case, it’s fine to apply your foundation with no concealer. In fact, it may sometimes be necessary to apply a concealer that is slightly darker than your foundation to reduce having a whitish goggle effect around the eye.
I prefer to apply concealer first and then the foundation. You can apply your concealer in a small arc around the inside corner of the eye or, for a more involved makeup application, you can apply it in a sweep under the entire eye and out on the upper cheekbone. Blend this out evenly, taking care not to spread it onto areas where you don’t want it. Be sure you are using a pat-and-blend method of application, as this will ensure that the concealer covers where it is supposed to and is not inadvertently wiped away. The foundation is then applied lightly over this area and blended out over the face. You may also want to try applying your foundation first and then sparingly applying concealer to the under-eye area if it is still dark. The trick is to make sure the foundation and concealer edges merge imperceptibly on the skin.
The most typical problem with a concealer is applying it smoothly over the under-eye area without making it look too white. It is important to always blend the edge of the concealer away from the eye until it disappears. Also, try to concentrate the concealer along the inside corner of the eye and down, as opposed to out. The less concealer you put at the back or outside corner of the eye (unless that area is dark), the lower your chances of looking like a raccoon with a white mask over the eyes.
At times when you wish to wear as little makeup as possible, try using only a minimal amount of concealer that is closer to your true skin tone than the concealer you normally use. Or try a lighter shade of foundation than you normally wear and apply it only in the under-eye area. This can make a world of difference in making you look rested and polished, but not made up. Again, the trick is to blend extremely well so that there is no discernible edge between the concealer area and the part of the face where there is no makeup.
Many cosmetics lines have excellent concealers, whether your preference is for a liquid, cream, or cream-to-powder texture. When shopping for a concealer, the primary things to look for are (1) a neutral skin tone that is one or two shades lighter than your foundation, but not so light that it looks obvious when blended on in the under-eye area, (2) a smooth texture to ensure easy blending, (3) coverage that suits your needs, and (4) staying power, so it doesn’t crease into the lines around the eyes.