Arbutin

Arbutin is a hydroquinone derivative isolated from the leaves of the bearberry shrub, cranberry, blueberry, and most types of pears, and serves a similar purpose. Because of arbutin’s hydroquinone content it can have melanin-inhibiting properties (Source: Journal of Pharmacology and Experimental Therapeutics, February 1996, pages 765-769). Although the research describing arbutin’s effectiveness is persuasive (even if most of the research has been done on animals, in vitro, or by companies selling products using the ingredient), concentration protocols have not been established. That means we just don’t know how much arbutin it takes to have an effect in lightening the skin. Moreover, most cosmet­ics companies don’t list the word “arbutin” on their products because there are patents controlling its use in skin-care products for skin lightening and it is extremely expensive. To get around this problem many cosmetics companies use plant extracts that contain arbutin, such as bearberry, but the amounts of those used in most skin-care products are exceptionally small and the likelihood of seeing benefit is anyone’s guess. (Sources: British Journal of Dermatology, December 2008, pages 1267-1274; and Journal of Cosmetic Science, July-August 2006, pages 291-308). That’s why many products containing tiny amounts of plant sources of arbutin have names like “brightening” or “illuminating” rather than “whitening” or “lightening.”