One of my favorite examples of how the cosmetics industry takes an ingredient and either misleads or exaggerates to the point of fabricating information about it is acetyl hexapeptide-3. This synthetically derived peptide is used primarily in skin-care products claiming to have a muscle-relaxing effect similar to Botox injections. Typically, the claims have to do with this peptide being able to calm muscle contractions, specifically those involved in making facial expressions, thus reducing the appearance of expression lines. The company selling this ingredient (trade name Argireline) is Centerchem (www. centerchem. com). According to their Web site, “Argireline works through a unique mechanism which relaxes facial tension leading to a reduction in superficial facial lines and wrinkles with regular use. Argireline has been shown to moderate excessive catecholamines release.” The truth of this claim about the effects of topical application of Argireline is based only on information from Centerchem; there is no published research substantiating any use of Argireline topically on skin.
Catecholamines are compounds in the body that serve as neurotransmitters, including epinephrine, adrenaline, and dopamine. Epinephrine prepares the body to handle emergencies such as cold, fatigue, and shock. A deficiency of dopamine in the brain is responsible for the symptoms of Parkinson’s disease. These actions are not something you want a cosmetic to inhibit or reduce.
If acetyl hexapeptide-3 really worked to relax facial muscles, it would work all over the face (assuming you’re using the products as directed). If all the muscles in your face were relaxed you’d have sagging, not youthful, skin, not to mention that it also would affect your hand (you apply it with your fingers after all), which would prevent you from picking up a cup or holding the steering wheel of your car. Despite all the fear about Botox that is disseminated by companies featuring this peptide in their “works like Botox” products, there is considerably more efficacy, usage, and safety documentation available for Botox.
Despite the claims made for acetyl hexapeptide-3, there is actually a clinical study showing this ingredient does not work in any way like Botox in reducing wrinkles (Source: International Journal of Cosmetic Science, October 2002).
It is also interesting to note that Botox itself, when applied topically on skin, has no impact—either on the skin or the muscles—in any way, shape, or form! (Source: Cosmetic Dermatology, July 2005, pages 521-524.)
