BIRTHMARKS AND PORT-WINE STAINS

Several layers of concealer are needed to cover areas with very dark pigmentation. First, apply a pale yellow-toned foundation or concealer that is three to five shades lighter than the skin tone. Then, apply one that is only slightly lighter than the overall skin tone. Finally, apply a full-coverage foundation that matches the skin tone. Set with powder. Again, experiment to find the right tone and formulations to effectively cover very dark spots.

SCARS AND TATTOOS

It may not be possible to cover scars and tattoos completely. If stick foundation or cover stick does not cover them, try using Covermark, a heavy-duty concealer designed for tattoos and scars. Apply foundation that matches skin tone to the whole face, and set with a powder that matches the skin tone.

UNEVEN SKIN

Skin is sometimes darker through the forehead or through the area of the lower mouth. Two different tones of foundation can be used to match each of the skin tones. Blend well to create an even transition between tones. Bronzer can be used over foundation to even out skin tone. A gel bronzer applied to moisturized skin prior to foundation evens the skin as well. Foundation can then be applied where needed.

FRECKLES

Rather than using a heavy foundation to conceal freckles, let them show through. Use a tinted moisturizer that evens out skin tone, and consider using a bronzer to finish.

ACNE

Start with the right skincare regimen, and use oil-free moisturizers. Apply blemish cover stick with a small, clean brush, or spot conceal with an opaque foundation only in those areas where needed. Use a tinted moisturizer or lightweight liquid foundation to even out the skin tone. The trick is to blend away the discoloration without applying heavy coverage.

WRINKLES

Hydration is the key to creating smooth-looking skin. Ex-foliate regularly with a gentle scrub or an alpha hydroxy acid cream. Use water-infused hydrating ultrarich moisturizers and creamy makeup formulas. For lines around the lips, use a lip balm Choose a creamy lipstick and matching pencil to prevent feathering.

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POWDER

A light dusting of powder sets concealer and foundation for hours, keeping the skin looking fresh.

Choosing the Right Powder

Color

Like foundation, powder works only when it is the right shade. For most people, the right powder has a yellow undertone. While the color of the powder will vary to match the foundation, it is the yellow – toned base that will give warmth to the skin. White powder is right only for those with alabaster skin. Translucent powder is not invisible or transparent and only makes skin look ashy.

Texture

Pressed powder is best for touch-ups. It dispenses a small amount and comes in a convenient compact. It is great for those who like a very natural look. Loose powder is denser and provides more coverage. Depending on the application technique, loose powder can be matte or sheer. Not everyone needs powder. Those with very dry skin might use powder only to set under-eye concealer.

Tools

The right tools will supply the perfect amount of powder. Using a powder puff will give powder a smooth, opaque finish. A powder brush will allow a sheer finish. A clean powder brush is also used to remove excess powder after an application with a powder puff. A small concealer brush can be used to apply powder to the corners of the face—under and around the eyes and around the mouth and nose.

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Tip

Oily skin can turn powder yellow or orange with time. Sometimes you have to choose a lighter color. To avoid powder buildup on oily skin, use an oil-blotting paper before touching up.

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Updated: June 25, 2015 — 1:18 pm