Enjoyment (Figure 2.6): A smile employs two muscles. The zygomatic major curves the mouth, and the orbicularis oculi raises the cheeks. The cheeks, in turn, press the skin toward the eye, causing a squint. Eyes appear brighter.
Anger (Figure 2.7): The person looks in deep concentration. Eyebrows appear downward, and the lips look pursed (orbicularis oris muscle). When angry, the blood can rush to the face. A flushing of redness can occur.
Fear (Figure 2.8): Eyes are wide and eyebrows lifted toward each other. Lips pull back (buccinator muscle) and even tremble.
Lips can be dry. In terror, nostrils dilate, pupils widen, and perspiration appears on the forehead.
Surprise (Figure 2.9): Surprise is a lot like fear except that, for the seconds before fear takes over, the eyes and mouth open (temporalis muscle working with the masseter muscle), and the eyebrows arch (frontalis muscle). Surprise in nature began as a protective measure. We humans raise our eyebrows.
Disgust (Figure 2.10): The mouth can open slightly. The nose can turn up slightly and 2 3
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FIGURE 2-7: ANGER
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FIGURE 2-9: SURPRISE
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FIGURE 2-10: DISGUST
wrinkle (procerus muscle), as if to acknowledge something foul.
Sadness (Figure 2.11): The face seems to sag. Wrinkles on the mid-forehead, eyebrows droop, and the corners of the mouth go down (triangularis muscle).
From The Face, The Skin Code by Daniel McNeill.
The skin (Figure 2.12) on our bodies is the largest organ we have, weighing in around six pounds. The skin is made up of several layers. The outer layer is the epidermis, which protects us from disease and
dehydration. The next layer is the dermis, which contains blood vessels, nerve endings, and glands. Beneath all of that, let’s not forget the subcutaneous, which has connective tissues and fat, maintaining our body heat and storing energy.
Wounds and diseases also play a big part for the Makeup Artist. It becomes clear why it is important to study the human body. Having medical books of all kinds is a valuable tool for research. Not only should you know the medical explanation of wounds or diseases, but also the scene or environment that caused the wound or disease in the first place. With that knowledge, you can then decide what products you will use and how to execute a realistic makeup. The following touches on only a few examples of wounds and diseases that involve anatomy and the Makeup Artist.
Shock: A term used for tissue and organ failure. There are three forms of shock. All have three stages. Stage One symptoms include cold, pale skin, and rapid heartbeat. Stage Two symptoms include weak pulse and cold, clammy skin. Stage Three is unconsciousness, shallow breathing, and rapid falling of blood pressure.
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Vater-Pacini
corpuscle
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Common Skin Disorders
FIGURE 2-12: SKIN CHART FOR MORE DETAILS AND SKIN DISORDERS. © 2007 Wolters Kluwer Health/Lippincott Williams and Wilkins.
Disease: Can be caused by a number of things: age, gender, infection, smoking, drugs, to name a few. There are times that a disease has no known cause. When you have a change of metabolism or cell changes, symptoms can occur that, in turn, make a person aware that a disease is present. Most often a disease goes through
stages. Those stages start with exposure to a disease and end with remission or full recovery.
Allergies: Can be caused by airborne irritants.
Symptoms can include sneezing, watery eyes, itchy throat, headaches, sore red eyes, runny nose, and dark circles under the eyes.
Psoriasis: An ongoing disease with periods of remission. Dry, flaky scales or thickened skin around lesions can be itchy and painful.
Bradley Look: To camouflage psoriasis, stipple a light layer of rubber mask grease over the affected area. Lightly powder to set. Using an airbrush, lightly cover the area with several light passes of airbrush product. Since psoriasis is notably seen only on the elbows and knees, additional body makeup might be required using the same technique if the condition is visible elsewhere on the talent.
Rosacea: Common among people with a Celtic background. Rosacea has a butterfly-like redness over the nose and cheek area. People most often mistake rosacea for acne.
Bradley Look: To camouflage rosacea, use a similar technique to the one outlined for port-wine stain.
Scars: Usually thick and pink with a smooth texture. Over time, scars should fade to a very pale white. Scars are broken down into two types: indented or protruding.
Bradley Look: For the indented scar, using a tattoo palette, apply a highlight (slightly paler than the skin tone) around the edge of the scar. Next, around the area of highlight, apply slightly darker tone than the skin color. By the creative use of highlights and shadow, you are attempting to make the scar appear less indented. Afterward, spray over with appropriate
foundation color. For a protruding scar, apply tattoo palette colors in the exact opposite order as listed above. Shadow is applied to the edge of the scar and blended outward. Foundation is then airbrushed over the entire area. Note: A hypertrophy scar can be toned down using makeup; the 3-D dimension is still quite visible if not properly lit.
Vitiligo: Complete loss of pigment over time. There is often a splotchy look to the skin. In fair skin, you might not notice it as much, but it is disfiguring to darker skin tones.
Bradley Look: To camouflage vitiligo, airbrush a medium flesh tone over the area. Next, lightly airbrush the foundation color over the affected area and the rest of the face.