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When the character needs (or the Director requests) a “natural look” for makeup, you want to show good health and appearance. You will spend most of your time enhancing the skin tone to show good health. Correct any discoloration, cover any scars or blemishes, and make the skin look healthy and vibrant. Remember to strive for realism. A tinted moisturizer works well in this look to even out the skin without looking like makeup (try Laura Mercier Tinted
Moisturizers). This is also a great choice for men and children. An alternative is to mix a small amount of oil-free moisturizer (try All You Need+ from Prescriptives) with your liquid or cream base. This will give you a sheer coverage that does not look overdone. If you need a bit more coverage, use a liquid or cream without mixing moisturizer into it. In situations where the actor’s skin is good and does not need a base or foundation, use the “spot paint” technique to balance out the skin tone. Spot painting is the technique of literally painting with makeup or concealer just the area or “spot” that needs it. Do not overapply or bring the makeup too far into the surrounding area of skin. You want to paint just the specific spot. KRYOLAN’s Dermacolor (an Industry Standard) works well with spot painting. It is noncomedogenic, and gives you dense, full coverage (camouflage) that you can feather or blend the edges with your makeup brush. Set with just a hint of powder: not too much, or the area will look dry. You can forgo the powder if needed, but you will have to reapply or touch up if you do not set the makeup. Use Face to Face Supermatte Antishine by Make-Up International (an Industry Standard) to take down any shine on the other areas of the face. For more tips on spot painting see “Spot Painting” later in this chapter.
Remember to match the foundation or base to the skin at the jawline. This helps to balance the tone in the neck and face so you are working with as little product as possible—remember, this is the “natural look.” The skin on the face is much different in tone and texture from the neck.
Blend down past the jawline under the chin area. You want to avoid any lines of demarcation or “the mask” look to the face.
Once the skin is looking healthy and vibrant, you need to add color to the cheeks, and bring attention to the eyes, lips, and eyebrows. For a natural blushed effect, place cheek color in the apple of the cheeks, either cream or powder. Reds, pinks, and peaches are best.
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PRO TIP "Always put blood back into the face after completing a makeup."
Taught to Steven Horak by Lenna Kaleva, Cincinnati
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