6. When airbrushing the face, spray in small, circular motions (Figure 10.15). This keeps the makeup even.
7. Have a folded tissue or shield to protect the hairline from overspray of makeup (Figure 10.16). Do not add tap water
to a water-based makeup to thin. Use distilled water. Tap water contains minerals that can contaminate or compromise the chemistry of the makeup.
|
|
PRO TIP
Read the ingredients of products you buy. Many of the cosmetic and airbrush companies have products that work well with each other. Know what you are buying. You’ll have the best results possible when airbrushing.
|
|
by Kris Evans and Darla Albright
Makeup Artists Kris Evans and Darla Albright developed Air Craft Cosmetics to meet the needs of the professional Makeup Artist as well as the consumer. From their vast experience in film, television, theatre, HD, and print editorial, they felt a need to develop a product that could be used with or without an airbrush. Kris Evans:
I use the airbrush on everything and find it much faster and easier. With HD becoming so popular, there is nothing better than the airbrush. Many of my clients also do red-carpet events that are mostly shot in HD. HD can be very harsh, so it is imperative the makeup be flawless. 1 really believe you must use the correct color in the foundation for the look to be natural. Easy touch-ups are also essential, which is why we created Air Craft Cosmetics. On set, I usually use a makeup brush for touch-ups. Because the foundation can be used with or without an airbrush, touch-ups are a breeze.
What’s in Kris Evans’s makeup kit? “Of course I use Air Craft!” (Figure 10.17).
Primer: Air Craft Primer (shea butter based); used with a brush or sponge, not the airbrushes
Foundation: Air Craft foundations (water based)
Pressed Powders: Air Craft Perfect Layover powder
Lip Gloss: Air Craft Lip Gloss Duos Eye Shadow: Air Craft Eye Glosses
i6 6
Excellent makeup brushes Tweezerman tweezers Eyelash curler Eyedrops Cleanser
Keep on hand a small squeeze bottle of distilled water or spring water or suggested product by the manufacturer for thinning airbrush makeup.
Moisturizer
It’s very important to clean your airbrush immediately after each use. You want to prevent the makeup from drying inside the airbrush. Not cleaned properly, your airbrush will not give the proper spray.
How to start:
1. Set up your station with everything you need to airbrush.
Apply the moisturizer or primer of choice to the skin first. Apply the primer with a sponge and not through the airbrush. A primer ensures a smooth surface with staying power for your airbrush. Squeeze six to seven drops of makeup into the airbrush cup. For a more translucent effect, add one to two drops of water. Remember to replace the cap on your airbrush to avoid spills.
Start the compressor. Position your hand on the airbrush lever as if you were holding a pencil.
4. Airbrush horizontally 3 to 4 inches from the face, pulling back the airbrush lever with your fingertip. You’ll see a fine mist start to adhere onto the surface of the
skin. Keep moving around the face in a circular motion without stopping in one place. It’s this constant movement that keeps the makeup even. Application should take about 15 seconds. If any areas need more coverage you can lightly airbrush a second coat of foundation to those areas.
8. Set your makeup with a setting powder (for example, Air Craft Cosmetics’ Perfect Layover Powder). You are now ready to finish the rest of your makeup application. Sweep an eye color over the lid—and, if needed, a subtle eyeliner.
Top your makeup off with a flattering lip gloss.
PRO TIP
The first time you airbrush, put only water into the cup, and spray onto your hand or a tissue. This will give you a feel for the airbrush and how it works.
5. Have your actor close their eyes. Then gently airbrush around the eye area.
6. Corrective spot covering is easy. For under the eyes, you can use a shade lighter than the foundation first. Then airbrush the entire face with the color you chose. For problem spots on the face, you can lightly spray a second layer of the foundation color.
7. Adding color for blusher or highlighters is easy. Blow out any leftover makeup color through the airbrush with a few drops of water. Add your next color choice to the cup. Blusher should be a soft blushcolor applied by hand or an airbrush. Lightly spray a highlighter color along the cheekbone, brow bone, under the eye, or anywhere a highlight is needed.
9. When all leftover makeup has been fully blown through the airbrush, detach the gun from the hose, and place the cup under running water to rinse thoroughly. Connect your gun again to the compressor, and run through your airbrush system to remove any makeup still there.
Maintenance: After every few applications, pull the needle out and wipe clean. Be careful not to bend the top of the needle.
Go to www. aircraftcosmetics. com for blow manual.