Full lips are considered the perfect aesthetic. There are situations where you will have to create the illusion of smaller lips. To do this, apply lip liner just inside the natural lip line.
Choose a liner that is close in tone to the lip tone, or match to the lipstick. Lipstick colors should be medium to dark.
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FIGURE 1-28: THIN LIPS MADE LARGER |
To create an even lip shape on someone with a thin upper lip, apply lip pencil on or just above the top lip line. Then line the bottom lip at the lip line. Use powder to set, then apply lip color.
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FIGURE 1-29: TO CORRECT THIN UPPER LIP |
To balance a thin bottom lip with the top lip, do the reverse. Line the top lip at the natural lip line. Line the bottom lip past the natural lip line to create balance and symmetry. Again powder to set your “new” lines.
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What if you do not need or want to change the lip shape? In this case, apply lip liner right at the natural lip line and fill in with lip color. You do not need to powder, because you have not changed the natural line. However, if it is a kissing scene you should powder the lips to set the makeup, or use a lip stain.