CONCEALERS 75

Concealers even out skin tone, and cover blemishes, scars, bruising, discoloration, and circles under the eyes. They have a thicker composition than foundation, and are available in cream, stick, tube, pots, and liquid. Sometimes a concealer is the only product a Makeup Artist needs to even out someone’s skin tone (see “Spot Painting” in Chapter 7). You will also use concealers on the body to cover any unattractive marks, bruises, or scars, or to cover tattoos. For the face and body (not the eye area), concealers with a high pigment are best for camouflaging because they provide complete coverage and last longer. You need to blend the concealer well into the skin so that it disappears, especially if you are not using a makeup foundation on the skin. You can apply concealer under or over makeup foundation.

Note that concealers are designed to be applied over the foundation if you are using a liquid or cream base. If you are using a powder or dry foundation, apply the concealer underneath the base. With the

Foundation Product Comparisons

Colors are classified according to temperature and charted below in descending values (or steps) from light to dark. Graftobian’s Hi-Def Creme Foundations are used as the baseline color range for other product comparison matches because of their wide range of selection of accurate skin tone colors in each temperature.

Temperature

Graftobian

RCMA

Cinema

Secrets

Visiora

MAC

Shu Uemura Nobara Cream

Black Opal

Revlon

CoIorStay

Warm

Graceful Swan

C15

983

Warm

Ingenue

301S-63

NC15

Buff

Warm

Vixen

302S-65

NC35, C3

Sand

Warm

Temptress

304S-32

Warm

Buttermilk

303S-66

Warm

Enchantress

Shinto #1

509-62

554

True Beiqe

Warm

Femme Fatale

LN1

Early Tan

Warm

Desert Sand

Shinto #2

754

Rich Tan

Warm

Winter Wheat

Shinto #3

201S-67

545

Toast

Warm

Golden Sunset

NC60, NW35

Warm

Deep Xanthe

Shinto #4

Warm

Ginqer

Shinto #5

Nutmeq

Warm

Midniqht Mariqold

Shinto #6

NC50, NC65, C7

Caramel

Warm

Burnt Amber

Shinto # 7

202S-20

Cappucino

Warm

Sienna

Black Walnut

Mocha

Three shades below are unique medium to medium dark colors in warm temperature:

Warm

Sunlit Linen

Kalahari Sand

Warm

Caramel

CN102

Warm

Pecan

Shinto #8

Hazelnut

Temperature

Graftobian

RCMA

Cinema

Secrets

Visiora

MAC

Shu Uemura Nobara Cream

Black Opal

Revlon

CoIorStay

Neutral

Bombshell

Neutral

Prima Donna

Nude

Neutral

Leadinq Lady

Neutral

Sweetheart

Neutral

Glamour Girl

564

Neutral

Cabaret Kitten

Neutral

Broadway Star

Neutral

Show Stopper

Neutral

Screen Goddess

LN1

Natural Tan

Neutral

Diva

NC45

Neutral

Chestnut

MB5

334

Au Chocolat

Neutral

Warm Limber

N4, NW45 & 50

Walnut

Neutral

Flazelnut

Neutral

Hidden Magic

204S-27

Neutral

Nightfall

Five shades below are unique medium dark to dark colors in neutral temperature:

Neutral

Eveninq Mist

S1

Neutral

Olivia

MV 101

C5, C50

Neutral

Smoke

KT4

Neutral

Soft Wisp

Neutral

Phantom

W55

Temperature

Graftobian

RCMA

Cinema

Secrets

Visiora

MAC

Shu Uemura Nobara Cream

Black Opal

Revlon

CoIorStay

Cool

Buff

501-11

MV010

Cool

Sunrise Flush

Ivory

CN001

NC20, NW20

574

Ivory

Cool

Aurora

GENA

598-14

MV001

Tawny

Cool

Cashmere Beige

Olive #1

MV002

N1

Natural Beige

Cool

Morning Glow

Olive #2

CN002

NW25 &3 0, N2

365

Medium Beige

Cool

Afterglow

Olive #3

MV003

354

Cool

Cedar Spice

Tan Tone

MV004

Cool

Ceylon Cinnamon

KT2

MV005

N6

Cool

Henna

KM5

CN005, MV006

Cool

Auburn

RJ2

CN006

Cool

Sable

314

Carob

Cool

Shadow Dance

Ebony

Three shades below are unique medium to medium dark colors in cool temperature:

Cool

Bisque

KW4

Cool

Butterscotch

КМ2

Heaven Honey

Cool

Sandstone

Olive #4

Original product match collaboration by Suzanne Patterson and Mary Erickson. Chart concept design by Michelle Talley. Revised and expanded format updated with additional category and product matches by Suzanne Patterson.

 

Подпись: FOUNDATIONS

CONCEALERS 75

FIGURE 6-3: FOUNDATION COMPARISON CHART BY MARY ERICKSON AND SUZANNE PATTERSON

Подпись: 77

exception of dry foundations, most Makeup Artists do both, under and over, when applying concealer. Your choice will become part of your working technique and style.

In difficult camouflage situations, you will need to apply both under and over the foundation to get the coverage needed. Try applying concealer both under and over a foundation for effect.

Industry Standards: KRYOLAN Dermacolor, Ben Nye, Joe Blasco.

Under-eye concealers come in stick, cream, or pot, as well as liquid. Look for concealers that are creamy in texture, with light to medium pigment. Remember that the skin around the eye is delicate, so the products you use to conceal around the eye area should be, too. If the product is too thick or uses a heavy pigment, you will have to work too hard to blend, irritating the thin skin tissue. Choose a concealer one shade lighter than the foundation that you are working with, and one that has moisturizing

CONCEALERS 75

FIGURE 6-4: DERMA COLOR PALETTE

properties. A stick concealer offers more coverage but is more difficult to blend, so it can be hard on the skin around the eyes. To avoid irritation and to keep the stick sanitary, do not apply the stick directly to the skin. Do not powder under the eyes.

Industry Standards: Paula Dorf, Iman, Kanebo, LORAC, Touche Eclat (YSL), Valorie.

Updated: June 26, 2015 — 7:01 pm