Cosmetic formulation is becoming increasingly complex given the challenges of formulating for a technologically sophisticated consumer. This text is designed to meet the needs of the cosmetic chemist, scientist, dermatologist and formulator who must understand a wide range of issues to create successful, novel skin care products for a diverse population. To accomplish this end, the text is divided into the key knowledge areas of cutaneous formulation issues, formulation development, raw materials and active ingredients, and product testing, efficacy, and clinical assessment. The section on cutaneous formulation deals with the unique aspects of formulating for specific body areas, such as the face, eyelids, lips, hands, underarms, etc., while discussing the needs of special populations, such as individuals with sensitive skin, rosacea, atopic dermatitis, etc. Issues specific to both genders and all skin color types are presented. This initial section presents the framework necessary to design products that successfully perform in body areas with unique anatomic considerations while considering gender and ethnic differences.
The text continues by delving into formulation development by product category: cleansers, moisturizers, toners, antiperspirants, and sunscreens. This allows the reader to take the information learned in section one regarding unique anatomic needs and create skin care products by employing state-of-the-art formulation chemistry. However, the skin care industry has moved beyond basic skin maintenance product categories into actives designed to deliver skin-enhancing benefits. These areas of skin treatment include the realms of acne, photoaging, dyspigmentation, and inflammation. Actives that are important in these areas include salicylic acid, benzoyl peroxide, hydroxy acids, retinoids, vitamins, hydroquinone, antioxidants, botanicals, etc. Understanding the mechanism of action and formulation issues regarding these actives allows the creation of skin care products that deliver benefits into the treatment realm beyond maintenance.
In summary, the text presents diverse knowledge sets from dermatology, cosmetic chemistry, and product formulation. It synthesizes the information into one cohesive unit for practical application by the dermatologist, cosmetic chemist, formulator, or testing facility. Only by understanding all aspects of cosmetic formulation can technology expand the skin care marketplace.
Zoe Diana Draelos Lauren A. Thaman