Mechanisms Kinetin is a plant hormone. While its specific mechanisms have not been elucidated, it has been observed to promote growth and have anti-senescence effects in plants. It is a powerful natural antioxidant with effects in protecting DNA and protein from oxidative damage. In human fibroblast cell culture, even very low levels (ppm) delay the […]

Several studies have been discussed and overviewed (60). For example, in an open-label, one-month study with a DMAE-containing formulation (DMAE dose not specified), the skin of 50 subjects was compared at the end of the treatment period versus baseline by dermatologist grading and subject self-assessment. Significant improvements were reported in several measures, particularly in the […]

Mechanism DMAE (also known as deanol) is a precursor to acetylcholine, a neurotransmitter involved in increased muscle tone. There thus could be firming of the skin via effects on the facial Table 1 Lack of Effect of Pal-KTTKS on Skin Barrier Properties as Assessed by Transepidermal Water Loss Time point Transepidermal water loss (g water/m2/hr) […]

An important challenge is delivery into skin since peptides are poorly penetrating, especially as the number of amino acid residues increases. An approach to that problem is addition of a lipophilic chain (e. g., palmitate), which in the case of KTTKS increased skin penetration several-fold over the underivatized peptide. An additional challenge is the cost. […]

The peptide pal-KTTKS has been shown to be quite potent clinically, providing effects from very low topical doses. This low dose for clinical activity is consistent with the very low concentration (as low as ppb) required to obtain effects in vitro as noted above. In small-base human clinical testing (54), topical pal-KTTKS at 3 ppm […]

KTTKS is a fragment of dermal collagen and has been shown to stimulate production of collagen and thus has been discussed in regard to wound healing (41). Incorporation of long-chain lipophilic residues such as palmitoyl onto peptides can dramatically improve their delivery into skin, e. g., the observed five – to six-fold increase in delivery […]

Forms There is a limitless array of possible peptides, based on amino acid sequence, number of amino acid residues, and use of derivatives/isomers of these residues. A few peptides with well-characterized sequences that have received particular focus in the cosmetic industry are palmitoyl-lysine-threonine-threonine-lysine-serine (pal-KTTKS; Matrixyl®), acetyl-glutamate-glutamate-methionine-glutamine-arginine-arginine (Ac-EEMQRR; Argireline®), and the tripeptide copper glycine-histidine-lysine (Cu-GHK).

The key challenge with vitamin C compounds in general is stability (oxygen sensitivity), particularly with ascorbic acid. Not only does oxidation lead to loss of the active material, there is also rapid product yellowing (an aesthetic negative for the consumer). Various stabilization strategies can be attempted to address the issue, such as exclusion of oxygen […]

There are several published studies discussing the anti-aging benefit of ascorbic acid. The reported doses of vitamin C tested are fairly high, and the base sizes are relatively small (n<23). Some of the studies address ingredient oxidative stability, a particular challenge with this form of vitamin C. In oil-in-water emulsion, loss of nearly half of […]