The Food and Drug Administration (FDA) is the regulatory agency that oversees the marketing of non-prescription acne products. In the Final Acne Monograph, an “acne drug product” is defined as: “A drug product used to reduce the number of acne blemishes, acne pimples, blackheads and whiteheads” (10). The following ingredients and concentrations are currently allowed […]

Acne affects mainly the face, although other regions rich in sebaceous glands can also be affected (chest, back, upper arms). The lesions can be distinguished into non-inflammatory (open and closed comedones or blackheads and whiteheads) and inflammatory lesions (papules, pustules and nodules). Four main factors are known to influence the development of acne, namely: (i) […]

Theresa Chen and Yohini Appa Neutrogena Skincare Institute, Los Angeles, California, U. S.A. INTRODUCTION Acne vulgaris is an extremely common condition affecting more than 80-90% of adolescents and young adults (1,2). It typically starts in late childhood or early teens, but onset may be delayed in some people well into their 20s and 30s (3). […]

N-acetylglucosamine (NAG) (Fig. 7) is a water-soluble, neutral compound that can easily be incorporated into skin care formulations. It is found naturally occurring as a repeating unit of the abundantly available material known as chitin (e. g., shrimp shells). In human skin, it is a natural component of GAGs, glycolipids, and membrane glycoproteins. Along with […]

Salicylic acid (orthohydroxybenzoic acid) (Fig. 5) is an aromatic hydroxyacid with the hydroxyl and carboxyl groups attached directly to a benzene ring (47,48). It is frequently referred to as a beta-hydroxy acid, but a more accurate description is a phenolic aromatic acid because the carboxyl and hydroxyl groups are present on the benzene ring; in […]

There are several factors to consider in the formulation process to optimally and safely deliver hydroxy acids to skin. The AHAs, PHAs, and bionic acids are mild, organic acids that are optimally absorbed into skin when present in the free acid, non-ionized form (46). As a result, formulation pH is extremely important. At a defined […]

AHAs are used extensively as adjunctive agents in the treatment of hyperkeratotic disorders including psoriasis, callouses, acne, keratosis pilaris, and keratoses (6,8,27). They are considered among the best therapeutic options for the treatment of most forms of ichthyosis (24,25). These compounds are also used ubiquitously for the treatment of aging-related skin changes. AHAs are marketed […]

The alpha-hydroxy acid (AHAs), polyhydroxy acids (PHAs) and bionic acids are exvuviating compounds that enhance desquamation and cell turnover. Because of the differences in their molecular structures, these compounds provide some additional benefits to skin as described below. Alpha-Hydroxy Acids—Anti-aging Plus Exfoliation AHAs, such as glycolic acid, lactic acid, and mandelic acid (Fig. 1), have […]

Chemical exfoliants are substances that cause superficial skin cells to desquamate at an increased rate as a result of their ability to disrupt intercellular bonding within the stratum corneum. This effect on skin occurs through several different mechanisms as described below. OH CH—COOH / H   Glycolic Acid Lactic Acid Mandelic Acid Figure 1 Alpha-hydroxy […]