The closed, self-contained procedure known as microdermabrasion was first developed in the mid-1980s by researchers in Italy to eliminate the risk of airborne blood generated during conventional dermabrasion treatments (14). Microdermabrasion was approved for use in the United States by the Food and Drug Administration (FDA) in 1997 and has become one of the most popular procedures used for aesthetic skin care (15).
This novel exfoliation technique utilizes a stream of aluminium oxide, sodium bicarbonate, or sodium chloride crystals that functions by “sandblasting” skin under mild suction, which serves to collect the aerosolized crystals and skin particulates for disposal (15,16). Depending on the power of the machine, the number of passes of the hand piece over the skin and/or the speed of the hand piece over the skin, microdermabrasion can cause superficial exfoliation of the uppermost layers of the epidermis or reach the dermis, as indicated by signs of bleeding (14). One study reported complete ablation of the stratum corneum after two passes with microdermabrasion and a resulting increase in vitamin C penetration by a factor of 20 compared to non-abraded skin, demonstrating the potential for significant exfoliation effects from microdermabrasion (17).
Microdermabrasion has been used to treat a variety of skin conditions including photoaged skin, acne, hyperpigmentation, striae distensa, actinic keratosis, and keratosis pilaris. Adverse events are infrequent and include pigmentation irregularities, which occur mainly in darker skin (Fitzpatrick skin types V and VI) and prolonged erythema lasting beyond 24 hours (15). Many microdermabrasion protocols suggest a series of superficial procedures on a monthly or half-monthly basis in order to achieve skin benefits while minimizing the likelihood for adverse events (15). Several publications support the safe and effective use of microdermabrasion, with both dermal and epidermal benefits, and corresponding patient satisfaction (18-21).
Due to the perceived benefits of microdermabrasion by patients and its success in dermatologist offices and spas/salons, a home care market is emerging. Accordingly, several cosmetic companies have tested and introduced home “microdermabrasion” kits; many of these kits incorporate use of scrubs or exfoliating moisturizers made by suspending physical particles, such as polyethylene beads or apricot kernels, in a cream emulsion or gel, rather than providing actual exfoliating devices (22,23).