IMPACT OF EXOGENOUS MOISTURIZATION ON BARRIER REPAIR

In a state of epidermal barrier disruption characterized by increased TEWL and reduced epidermal water content, a properly formulated moisturizer can act in a manner similar to endogenous epidermal lipids in promoting and restoring epidermal barrier function (1-3,13-24). Lipids applied externally in moisturizer formulations intercalate between corneocytes and have been shown to reduce surfactant-induced skin irritation (15-18). The use of nonphysiologic lipids such as petrolatum initially restores barrier function by producing a diffuse hydrophobic interstitium. Importantly, physiologic lipids applied in moisturizers can be directly incorporated into barrier lipids and lamellar units and do not appear to downregulate physiologic lipid production in skin (16-18). However, it is vital that all three lipid components (ceramide, cholesterol, free fatty acids) be incorporated in moisturizer formulations in optimized concentrations in order to avoid impairment of barrier recovery (16,17).

Updated: June 20, 2015 — 1:39 pm