FORMULATION CHARACTERISTICS

Most moisturizers are formulated as creams (water-in-oil emulsion) or lotions (oil-in­water emulsion) (1,2,8,13). The “heaviness” of the final formulation correlates with the inclusion and relative concentration of heavier occlusive agents such as petrolatum and lanolin derivatives, the inherent qualities of individual emollients and humectants that may be included in some products, and the oil-water ratio (5). Night creams are examples of products that are specifically designed to be heavier formulations. Specific ingredients are often combined in formulations to correlate with use for individual “skin types” such as dry, normal, or oily complexions. This is achieved by altering the heaviness characteristic of the occlusive agent used through selection of specific emollients that may be either protective, fatting, dry, or astringent in their inherent quality, and through adjustment of oil-water ratios. Examples of ingredient adjustments designed to correlate with use in specific skin types include dimethicone, a non-greasy, noncomedogenic emollient agent used in “oil free” facial moisturizers marketed for individuals with “oily skin” or inclusion of oil-absorbent compounds such as kaolin or talc, added to formulations to reduce “facial shine” by absorbing excess sebum (5).

Updated: June 21, 2015 — 3:00 am