Facial cleansing is a primary need for most individuals. Apart from being a key interface for social interaction (“put your best face forward”), the face is a prime location for the accumulation of endogenous and exogenous soils. Sebaceous gland size and density are greatest on the face, upper back, and chest. The secretions from these glands, in conjunction with applied cosmetic products, help create a hydrolipid film on the skin surface that can effectively trap environmental pollutants (e. g., dust, and cigarette smoke). But while the accumulation of soil necessitates effective facial cleansing there are also
considerations that argue against excessive cleansing. For example, the facial stratum corneum has fewer cell layers than other parts of the body, except for the genitalia (114). A thinner stratum corneum barrier could increase susceptibility to irritation. The face is a site commonly associated with “sensitive skin,” which by definition is based on subjective irritation and excludes individuals with pre-existing skin disease (115). This condition, which is estimated to affect about 50% of females, is reportedly associated with a defective stratum corneum barrier and to improve with a controlled skin care regimen (116). Facial skin is also moveable and rich in sensory nerves, so sensations such as tightness or tautness are more easily noticed. A retrospective study conducted by de Groot showed that the face far exceeded other body sites as an area for adverse effects from cosmetics among both females and males surveyed (117). Both sexes identified cleansers (soaps) as the agents most often responsible for these effects.
Bars are a convenient and popular facial cleansing option. These cleansers are available in a wide range of compositions. Traditional soaps provide effective cleansing and results presented previously indicate that with normal washing even soap bars do not completely strip the hydrolipid layer from the skin surface. However, soap may still induce or predispose the skin to sensations of tightness. Cleansing in adolescents or acne-prone populations requires special consideration. Acne is not caused by dirt on the skin surface, but regular cleansing is important. While soap is an effective cleanser, some evidence suggests that soap washing may predispose the skin to acne (101). More importantly, soap can irritate already inflamed acne lesions. Washing with a mild cleanser and warm water is recommended (118).
Exfoliating agents help to physically remove dirt and cellular debris from the surface of the skin, provide a rejuvenated look, stimulate the skin through a massage effect, and smooth the skin surface (119). The latter can increase the cleansing efficacy of personal cleansers. Exfoliating agents take several forms. There are exfoliating implements; those intended for use on the face are often made of a non-woven polyester material and are used to apply a cleansing product to the skin; some incorporate a cleanser that is activated by wetting. Proper use is important to avoid damaging the stratum corneum barrier, which will increase the likelihood of cleanser irritation, and manufacturers’ directions for use should be followed. Some bar and liquid cleansers incorporate particles intended to act as exfoliating agents. Materials such as polyethylene, silica, various ground seeds (e. g., apricot, almond, or walnut seed), jojoba esters, loofa powder, cross-linked polymethacrylate, or calcium carbonate are used for these beads. The effectiveness of these exfoliating products and their potential to impact the skin is dependent on the concentration of the exfoliating agent and the properties of the particular agent used (119-121). As with exfoliating implements, manufacturers’ directions for use should be followed to avoid damaging the skin when using these products.
Cleansing cloths are a relatively new introduction into the personal cleansing market. These cloths are available in dry and wet forms. The former, like the cleansing sponges mentioned above, incorporate cleansers that are activated when the cloth is wet. The textured surface of these cloths provides exfoliation and, in conjunction with the integrated surfactants, effective cleansing (122). These cloths can incorporate additional agents, such as petrolatum, that are transferred to the skin during use to provide skin benefits such as improved hydration. A four-week study conducted among a subject population with stage 1 or stage 2 rosacea showed good in-use tolerance for a dry lathering facial cleansing cloth with petrolatum (123). Thus, these facial cleansing cloths may provide a good cleansing option for individuals with sensitive skin.
Astringents and toners are sometimes used after cleansing to remove soap residue or remaining oil. These products may contain water, alcohol, propylene glycol, witch hazel,
or salicylic acid (124). Astringents and toners can dry the skin and leave it with a tight feeling, a cleansing endpoint that is considered desirable by some consumers. However, Wortzman reported that using a toner after cleansing increases irritation (125), either by a direct effect for toners with high alcohol content, or paradoxically for toners with moderate to low alcohol content. Propylene glycol that is found in some products is a mild irritant that may cause stinging in some individuals, and is also a potential contact allergen.