Enzyme Depilatories

While there are number of patents covering the use of enzymes as cosmetic depilatory, technology has not advanced to a commercially viable product. Enzyme action in depila – tion is complex and reportedly varies with the type of enzyme. Some proteolytic enzymes, such as papain and trypsin solubilize hair to some extent, while others act on non-keratin portions of the skin and hair follicle to affect loosening and removal of hair [13]. Enzymes such as that produced by Streptomyces fradiae attack keratin directly by breaking the dis­ulfide bonds of the hair [17,18]. The enzymes with direct action on hair fiber have been the main focus of attention for cosmetic depilatories. Enzymatic depilation has several advan­tages over the thioglycolate approach, including, odor-free and skin-friendly preparations (pH of 4.5-8 compared to 10+ for thiols). The major drawback, however, is poor efficacy and potential for allergic reaction. Products containing protease enzyme preparations (fruit enzymes) are commercially available, mostly for delaying hair regrowth after depilation, or are present for claim purposes only.