Opinions are divided as to the level of attention Makeup Artists should pay to skin care. There are three types of Makeup Artists when it comes to skin care. There are Makeup Artists who believe that skin care should be left to the individual. These artists believe it is up to the individual and/ or their dermatologist to care for the skin, reasoning that it takes time to correct skin conditions and develop a proper skin-care regime, which needs to be done morning and evening. Some products need to be absorbed completely before applying makeup (so done at home before work), and in some cases, treatment products should be used only at night before bed (retinols). It takes time and money to
develop a skin-care routine that works best for the individual. Many times you need several weeks to correct skin conditions—it cannot be done in a day. This group of Makeup Artists will expect the individual to maintain their own daily routine of skin care and cleansing. They will expect them to show up to work ready for makeup application, having already applied their products at home, which gives the proper time for absorption. For this group, the care of the skin is the individual’s responsibility and that of their dermatologist.
There is another group of Makeup Artists who are also licensed aestheticians (the study of skin care). This group of Makeup Artists will be more involved in skin care.
As the style of filmmaking, technology, and surgical procedures advances and increases, so has the trend for arming oneself with skin care knowledge. This group of Makeup Artists will recommend products and prep the skin before makeup, as well as cleanse and treat the skin at wrap. (“Wrap” is the term called by the First AD—Assistant Director—at completion of the day’s filming.) These Makeup Artists believe in being proactive in the care of the skin, and diminishing breakouts as much as possible or correcting dull skin. Acne can be diminished by makeup, lighting, and filters on the camera, but with a 40-foot screen, dimensional imperfections are hard to hide. (If shooting digital, there can be correction in “post” or the final product.) Clear skin is always the optimum, and this type of Makeup Artist has the knowledge and background to work toward the goal of correcting skin problems to achieve smooth, clear skin.
The last group of Makeup Artists falls in between the two other types. This group will have knowledge of skin care and will take the time to be current in products and treatments for the skin, although they may or may not be licensed aestheticians. They will prep, tone, moisturize, sunblock, and sometimes apply masks. They probably will do cleansing at wrap. It has become common to see a professional towel caddie on the counter in makeup trailers (towel caddies keep wet towels warm for cleanup). All the groups of Makeup Artists work with sunblock. We have a responsibility to protect the skin in exterior locations. Your choice of involvement will become your working style, and should be based on your beliefs and education or knowledge of the skin. We do recommend that, regardless, you take the time to keep current with skin-care trends and makeup products throughout your career. If you do choose to make skin care part of your working style, please note that it adds time to your day, and some productions will not want overtime incurred for cleanup at wrap.
PRO TIP |
Anything glued or applied to the face, neck, or body by a Makeup Artist that needs a solvent to remove must be removed by the Makeup Department. The time it takes to remove is "on the clock" (official time of payment).
nonirritating cleanser—for example,
Cetaphil Gentle Skin Cleanser. Cetaphil is a gentle facial cleanser that does not strip the skin of its natural pH balance; it is an Industry Standard. Using bottled water, if a sink is not available (trailer water is nonpotable, not recommended for the mouth, face, or eyes), wet the washcloth and put it in the microwave for one to two minutes. If the towel is too hot, allow it to cool before using. This is the simplest and safest way to cleanse the skin. Washcloths are a fantastic way to remove makeup and clean the skin without harm. There are also 8 7 makeup-removal wipes. Choose one without alcohol (alcohol is drying to the skin). Wash your white towels in warm or hot water with bleach for sanitation.
Be careful with alcohol-based toners. The alcohol strips the skin of its natural oils and pH balance, causing the brain to signal the production of more oil to the surface of the skin in an attempt to bring back the balance to a "normal" pH. pH is the relative degree of acidity and alkalinity of a substance. Don’t dry the skin out!
—Joel Garson, Milady’s Standard Fundamentals for Estheticians, 9th ed.
There are actors and individuals who will request and prefer that the makeup is removed at the end of each day. Have a supply of clean white washcloths and a