Concealers even out skin tone, and cover blemishes, scars, bruising, discoloration, and circles under the eyes. They have a thicker composition than foundation, and are available in cream, stick, tube, pots, and liquid. Sometimes a concealer is the only product a Makeup Artist needs to even out someone’s skin tone (see “Spot Painting” in Chapter 7). You will also use concealers on the body to cover any unattractive marks, bruises, or scars, or to cover tattoos. For the face and body (not the eye area), concealers with a high pigment are best for camouflaging because they provide complete coverage and last longer. You need to blend the concealer well into the skin so that it disappears, especially if you are not using a makeup foundation on the skin. You can apply concealer under or over makeup foundation.
Note that concealers are designed to be applied over the foundation if you are using a liquid or cream base. If you are using a powder or dry foundation, apply the concealer underneath the base. With the
|
Foundation Product Comparisons
|
|
Colors are classified according to temperature and charted below in descending values (or steps) from light to dark. Graftobian’s Hi-Def Creme Foundations are used as the baseline color range for other product comparison matches because of their wide range of selection of accurate skin tone colors in each temperature.
|
|
|
Temperature
|
Graftobian
|
RCMA
|
Cinema
Secrets
|
Visiora
|
MAC
|
Shu Uemura Nobara Cream
|
Black Opal
|
Revlon
CoIorStay
|
|
Warm
|
Graceful Swan
|
|
|
|
C15
|
983
|
|
|
|
Warm
|
Ingenue
|
|
301S-63
|
|
NC15
|
|
|
Buff
|
|
Warm
|
Vixen
|
|
302S-65
|
|
NC35, C3
|
|
|
Sand
|
|
Warm
|
Temptress
|
|
304S-32
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
Warm
|
Buttermilk
|
|
303S-66
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
Warm
|
Enchantress
|
Shinto #1
|
509-62
|
|
|
554
|
|
True Beiqe
|
|
Warm
|
Femme Fatale
|
LN1
|
|
|
|
|
|
Early Tan
|
|
Warm
|
Desert Sand
|
Shinto #2
|
|
|
|
754
|
|
Rich Tan
|
|
Warm
|
Winter Wheat
|
Shinto #3
|
201S-67
|
|
|
545
|
|
Toast
|
|
Warm
|
Golden Sunset
|
|
|
|
NC60, NW35
|
|
|
|
|
Warm
|
Deep Xanthe
|
Shinto #4
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
Warm
|
Ginqer
|
Shinto #5
|
|
|
|
|
Nutmeq
|
|
|
Warm
|
Midniqht Mariqold
|
Shinto #6
|
|
|
NC50, NC65, C7
|
|
|
Caramel
|
|
Warm
|
Burnt Amber
|
Shinto # 7
|
202S-20
|
|
|
|
|
Cappucino
|
|
Warm
|
Sienna
|
|
|
|
|
|
Black Walnut
|
Mocha
|
|
Three shades below are unique medium to medium dark colors in warm temperature:
|
|
Warm
|
Sunlit Linen
|
|
|
|
|
|
Kalahari Sand
|
|
|
Warm
|
Caramel
|
|
|
CN102
|
|
|
|
|
|
Warm
|
Pecan
|
Shinto #8
|
|
|
|
|
Hazelnut
|
|
|
Temperature
|
Graftobian
|
RCMA
|
Cinema
Secrets
|
Visiora
|
MAC
|
Shu Uemura Nobara Cream
|
Black Opal
|
Revlon
CoIorStay
|
|
Neutral
|
Bombshell
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
Neutral
|
Prima Donna
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
Nude
|
|
Neutral
|
Leadinq Lady
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
Neutral
|
Sweetheart
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
Neutral
|
Glamour Girl
|
|
|
|
|
564
|
|
|
|
Neutral
|
Cabaret Kitten
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
Neutral
|
Broadway Star
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
Neutral
|
Show Stopper
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
Neutral
|
Screen Goddess
|
LN1
|
|
|
|
|
|
Natural Tan
|
|
Neutral
|
Diva
|
|
|
|
NC45
|
|
|
|
|
Neutral
|
Chestnut
|
MB5
|
|
|
|
334
|
Au Chocolat
|
|
|
Neutral
|
Warm Limber
|
|
|
|
N4, NW45 & 50
|
|
Walnut
|
|
|
Neutral
|
Flazelnut
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
Neutral
|
Hidden Magic
|
|
204S-27
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
Neutral
|
Nightfall
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
Five shades below are unique medium dark to dark colors in neutral temperature:
|
|
Neutral
|
Eveninq Mist
|
S1
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
Neutral
|
Olivia
|
|
|
MV 101
|
C5, C50
|
|
|
|
|
Neutral
|
Smoke
|
KT4
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
Neutral
|
Soft Wisp
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
Neutral
|
Phantom
|
|
|
|
W55
|
|
|
|
|
Temperature
|
Graftobian
|
RCMA
|
Cinema
Secrets
|
Visiora
|
MAC
|
Shu Uemura Nobara Cream
|
Black Opal
|
Revlon
CoIorStay
|
|
Cool
|
Buff
|
|
501-11
|
MV010
|
|
|
|
|
|
Cool
|
Sunrise Flush
|
Ivory
|
|
CN001
|
NC20, NW20
|
574
|
|
Ivory
|
|
Cool
|
Aurora
|
GENA
|
598-14
|
MV001
|
|
|
|
Tawny
|
|
Cool
|
Cashmere Beige
|
Olive #1
|
|
MV002
|
N1
|
|
|
Natural Beige
|
|
Cool
|
Morning Glow
|
Olive #2
|
|
CN002
|
NW25 &3 0, N2
|
365
|
|
Medium Beige
|
|
Cool
|
Afterglow
|
Olive #3
|
|
MV003
|
|
354
|
|
|
|
Cool
|
Cedar Spice
|
Tan Tone
|
|
MV004
|
|
|
|
|
|
Cool
|
Ceylon Cinnamon
|
KT2
|
|
MV005
|
N6
|
|
|
|
|
Cool
|
Henna
|
KM5
|
|
CN005, MV006
|
|
|
|
|
|
Cool
|
Auburn
|
RJ2
|
|
CN006
|
|
|
|
|
|
Cool
|
Sable
|
|
|
|
|
314
|
Carob
|
|
|
Cool
|
Shadow Dance
|
|
|
|
|
|
Ebony
|
|
|
Three shades below are unique medium to medium dark colors in cool temperature:
|
|
Cool
|
Bisque
|
KW4
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
Cool
|
Butterscotch
|
КМ2
|
|
|
|
|
Heaven Honey
|
|
|
Cool
|
Sandstone
|
Olive #4
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
Original product match collaboration by Suzanne Patterson and Mary Erickson. Chart concept design by Michelle Talley. Revised and expanded format updated with additional category and product matches by Suzanne Patterson.
|
|
|
 |
FIGURE 6-3: FOUNDATION COMPARISON CHART BY MARY ERICKSON AND SUZANNE PATTERSON
exception of dry foundations, most Makeup Artists do both, under and over, when applying concealer. Your choice will become part of your working technique and style.
In difficult camouflage situations, you will need to apply both under and over the foundation to get the coverage needed. Try applying concealer both under and over a foundation for effect.
Industry Standards: KRYOLAN Dermacolor, Ben Nye, Joe Blasco.
Under-eye concealers come in stick, cream, or pot, as well as liquid. Look for concealers that are creamy in texture, with light to medium pigment. Remember that the skin around the eye is delicate, so the products you use to conceal around the eye area should be, too. If the product is too thick or uses a heavy pigment, you will have to work too hard to blend, irritating the thin skin tissue. Choose a concealer one shade lighter than the foundation that you are working with, and one that has moisturizing
|
FIGURE 6-4: DERMA COLOR PALETTE
|
properties. A stick concealer offers more coverage but is more difficult to blend, so it can be hard on the skin around the eyes. To avoid irritation and to keep the stick sanitary, do not apply the stick directly to the skin. Do not powder under the eyes.
Industry Standards: Paula Dorf, Iman, Kanebo, LORAC, Touche Eclat (YSL), Valorie.
