This herb is approved to treat inflammatory cutaneous diseases. It acts as soothing emollient via its major active compounds mucilages including mannogalactans which account for 25-45% of the extract. Proteins comprise another 25-30% of the extract, while steroid saponins including trigofoenosides and foenugracein account for about 15%. Trigonelline, sterols, volatile oils, and flavonoids such as […]
Category: Cosmetic Formulation of Skin Care Products
English Plantain (Plantago lanceolata)
The extracts of this herb are approved to treat cutaneous and mucosal inflammation. The active compounds include mucilages such as glucomannans, monoterpenes including aucubin, flavonoids such as apigenine glucoside, caffeic acids including chlorogenic acid, hydroxycoumarins such as aesculetin, silicic acid, tannins, and saponins. Therapeutic effects include acceleration of hemostasis and enhanced epithelialization and are bactericidal. […]
Chaste Tree (Vitexagnus-castus)
Known as Vitex, this medicinal botanical is approved for treating premenstrual acne with oral administration. The active compounds include flavonoids such as casticin, glycosides, fatty, and volatile oils. It suppresses follicle-stimulating and luteinizing hormone levels to increase progesterone and reduce estrogen levels. The main adverse effects are gastrointestinal tract distress and allergic eruptions (29).
Cajuput (Melaleuca leucadendra)
This herb is approved to treat wounds and burns and reverse a tendency toward infection. The antimicrobial and rubefacient effects are produced by cineol, terpineol, and other sesquiterpenes and phenones. Cajuput is administered as oil but must not be applied to the face of infants or children due to potential glottalspasm or bronchospasm. Contact allergic […]
Butcher’s Broom (Ruscus aculeatus)
This medicinal botanical is approved to treat venous conditions including venous insufficiency and hemorroids. The therapeutic activity is due to increasing venous tone while reversing inflammation. The major active compounds include steroid saponins ruscine and ruscoside which comprise 5% of the extract by weight. The other group of active compounds include benzofuranes including euparone. These […]
Bittersweet Nightshade (Solanum dulcamara)
This herb is approved to treat warts, acne, dermatitis, and furuncles. It is homeopathy for skin infection. The active compounds include steroid alkaloid glycosides and steroid saponins. The glycosides account for the stimulation of phagocytosis, hemolytic, cytotoxic, antiviral, anticholinergic, anesthetic, and desensitizing effect. The saponins promote resorption of the glycosides. Bittersweet nightshade is administered as […]
Agrimony (Agrimonia eupatoria)
This herb is approved for treatment of inflammation of cutaneous and mucosal tissues. Asian medicine uses it for hemostyptic effects. Agrimony acts as an astringent due to the active compounds being catechin tannins. This herb is administered by decoction for poultice. There are no reported health risks with agrimony (3).
German Commission E Approved Herbs
Herbs approved by the German Commission E for treatment of mucocutaneous indications not previously discussed are listed alphabetically below. Familiarity with these medicinal botanicals is important because these herbs should be among the most likely candidates for incorporation into future cosmeceuticals. Several have very recently been formulated into novel cosmeceuticals due to the confidence in […]
White Birch (Betulae folium)
This herb is included in cosmeceuticals to decrease fine lines because of its relatively high concentration of ascorbic acid, OPCs, and flavonoids including hyperoside and quercetin. Other actives include caffeic acids, such as chlorogenic acid, D-glucosides, monoterpene glucosides, and sesquiterpene oxides. This herb is used to treat hair loss and dandruff. White birch is administered […]