This Chinese herb contains geniposidic acid which statistically significantly increased stratum corneum turnover in aging mice (69).
Ginseng (Eleutherococcous senticosus, Panax ginseng,
P. quinquefolius)
The most potent species is Siberian ginseng which is Eleutherococcus senticosus. Panax ginseng is also from the Orient while Panax quinquefolius grows in America. This is a widely used oral herb that has recently entered cosmeceutical products without dermatologic studies or historical use in mucocutaneous disorders.
The major active ingredients of Panax ginseng are triterpene and steroid saponins known as ginsenosides, polysaccharides, aglycones, and polyynes. Eleutherococcus also contains steroid glycosides, hydroxycoumarins, phenylacrylic acids, and lignans (3). These actives all contribute to antioxidant, anti-inflammatory, anti-platelet, antitumor, and antiviral effects. Protein synthesis is also enhanced. The efficacy of oral ginsengs against systemic viruses is documented. Red ginseng applied topically appeared to inhibit chemically induced skin tumors in mice (29).
Ginseng is contraindicated in pregnancy, lactation, cardiac disease, and diabetes. Unfortunately 25% of 133 patients using ginseng for two years developed skin reactions. These also indicate ginseng abuse syndrome. Topical application to the face has induced postmenopausal vaginal bleeding. This herb increases effects of antidiabetic and anticoagulant drugs, estrogen, and MAO inhibitors. It is administered as a powder for infusion (3).