As you check out the different lines of brushes, the first thing you will hear about is the so-called quality of the bristles, and the salespeople will use this to justify the cost. Depending on the line, you will hear pretentious claims about squirrel, sable, pony, goat, and several other animals that did not give up their coats voluntarily. Synthetic brush hair is an option for those who are 100% vegetarian. However, synthetic brush hair is not preferred for most makeup application other than foundations and concealers. The most reliable synthetic brushes are from Origins, The Body Shop, and Shu Uemura.
Although natural bristles are definitely softer (and often more expensive) than synthetic, it does not take sable to make the perfect brush, and mixed-hair bristles can make for a stronger, more pliable brush that doesn’t lose its shape. Natural hairs tend to get softer over time, which means a firm, well-controlled brush can eventually become floppy and too soft. Salespeople who encourage you to buy the expensive brushes will claim that synthetic hairs get coarser and stiffer, or fall out after a year or two of usage, but that is not true. Synthetic hair brushes hold up as well if not better than natural hair brushes.
Ignore the claims about hair quality and trust your own touch and feel tests. Brush the bristles along the nape of your neck and ask yourself, “Is it smooth? Do the bristles hold their shape? Does it feel too loose, too stiff, or too soft? Does the brush feel densely packed, meaning lots of hairs, or flimsy?” Once you decide which feel you prefer, you can determine which brushes you want to work with.
Use the touch test to ascertain how the brush will hold up. Simply tug at the bristles, pulling away from the handle end, to see if there is any give. Do any hairs fall out? If you feel any release whatsoever, this is not a well-constructed brush. Some brushes are not well anchored and bound into the base of the brush. For example, Maybelline’s incredibly inexpensive brushes beautifully pass the feel test (they are wonderfully soft and firm), but fail the touch test (the bristles tend to pull out). In the short term they are a superior bargain, but they won’t hold up over the long haul.
When it comes to the shape of the brush, generally it is best to avoid blunt brushes and brushes with the bristles lined up flat with a severe edge. For most brushes—eyeliner, lip, eyeshadow, blush, and powder—look for ends that are more dome-shaped. Not only do these have a softer feel, but they also allow for a softer, less hard-edged application, which is almost always the goal. The only exception is the wedge brush for the brows or under the eyebrow.
When I’m doing my own makeup for media appearances or doing someone else’s makeup, I personally favor brushes with long, elegantly tapered wood handles. But when I try to squeeze these long-stemmed beauties into the small makeup bag I travel with or keep in my briefcase, I realize how cumbersome they can be. For women who want to invest in only one set of brushes, short handles are not only more convenient, they are essential.
When it comes to caring for your brushes, some people claim you must wash them frequently. If you are a makeup artist working on lots of people, you should be washing your brushes every day. But for those of us who are working on ourselves only and not changing colors on a daily basis, once a month is just fine. Especially for natural-hair brushes, frequent washing breaks down the hair shaft and that breaks down the brush hairs. Also, washing too often can loosen the glue in the handle that holds the bristles together and keeps them in place. When you clean the brushes, concentrate your effort on the bristles, not the handle.
It is best to use a regular shampoo instead of a special brush-cleaning solution (which is just shampoo anyway). The shampoo shouldn’t contain any conditioning agents, which can build up on the brush just like they do on the hair. Neutrogena Anti-Residue Shampoo and Paula’s Choice All Over Hair and Body Shampoo are great inexpensive options. A conditioner is not necessary when caring for your brushes. Brush hair is extremely healthy. It isn’t damaged from dyeing, perming, styling, brushing, and the other things people do to their own hair that make the use of conditioners required. When washing your brushes, carefully follow these steps:
• Gently but thoroughly wash the brush in tepid water.
• Meticulously rinse the brush, making sure the excess water is not running toward the base of the brush (where the hairs are secured).
• Carefully press out the excess water and dab the brush dry.
• Arrange the bristles back into their original shape.
• Let the brush air dry flat on a towel without the help of a blow dryer, which can damage bristles.