Minoxidil is still the only over-the-counter, topical pharmaceutical whose claims regarding hair regrowth have been approved by the FDA. Minoxidil, at one time available only under the trade name Rogaine, is now available under different names from several different companies and can increase hair growth by a statistically significant percentage in both men and women. Extensive research and statistics suggest that this fairly inexpensive treatment works incredibly well for some people and is even more effective for women with male pattern hair loss then men (and most women struggling with hair loss have androgen dependent hair loss which is referred to as male pattern baldness). (Sources: Clinical Interventions in Aging, February 2007, pages 189-199; and Journal of the American Academy of Dermatology, April 2004, pages 541-553.)
Using minoxidil (the active ingredient in Rogaine) at the available strengths is extremely safe (Source: Journal of Cutaneous Medicine and Surgery, July-August 2003, pages 322-329). Two strengths are available, 2% and 5% concentrations, and for women it seems that the 5% strength works better than the 2%. A study reported in the Journal of the American Academy of Dermatology (April 2004, pages 541-553) looked at 381 women who used either the 5% or 2% minoxidil solution for hair loss. Both the 5% and 2% solutions were superior to using nothing, which means both helped hair grow back, but the group that used 5% minoxidil demonstrated better hair growth than the 2% minoxidil group.
Despite this success, there is concern for women that both the 2% and 5% strengths can cause hair growth where you don’t want it, namely on the face and other parts of the
body, but that is easily adjusted by stopping usage. A study published in the Journal of the European Academy of Dermatology and Venereology (May 2003, pages 271-275) found that in a review of 1,333 women who were using either 2% or 5% minoxidil, 4% experienced unwanted hair growth, and that there was a higher incidence of unwanted hair growth in the group using the 5% strength. The study also pointed out, however, that a large percentage of the women in a part of this study (27%) reported that they experienced facial hair growth before they began using minoxidil, so it’s possible that the women who reported the unwanted hair growth before applying minoxidil had stronger potential for that growth when using minoxidil. It is important to note that the unwanted hair growth is not permanent and reverses itself once you stop treatment.
The question is: Would you fall into the 4% group who experienced hair growth in annoying places, and is that worth the risk to you? If you already have a problem with too much hair growth in unwanted places, perhaps minoxidil isn’t right for you. I should mention that personally I use the 5% strength. I had been using the 2% strength and didn’t see the improvement I was hoping for. I changed to the 5% strength and the receding areas at my hairline grew back in just under four months. I also found that I was allergic to Ro – gaine (it made me itch and flake terribly), so I changed to the generic version of minoxidil and it worked just fine with no problem in the several months I’ve been using it. And it’s definitely less expensive.
No one is certain yet just how topical minoxidil works, though work it does, although once you stop using it any hair that grew as a result of the drug will fall out. The most common side effects with this medication are itching and skin (scalp) irritation at the application site.